New Zealand South Island (Nov 2010, Part 5)

Day 10 (Journey into the Catlins)

Driving into the Catlins

Today, we left Invercargill and ventured into the Catlins. The Catlins is an area located in the southeastern corner of the South Island, between the city of Invercargill and the town of Balclutha. The road that runs across the Catlins is also part of the southern scenic route. It is a huge area and would take a few days to enjoy all the sights and attractions.  This is the place to get in touch with nature, a rugged and sparely populated area leave the area in its original natural state, filled with lush greenery and lots of wildlife to see. And with the frequent wild weather of strong winds and big ocean waves, the coastal landscape is totally sculptured by it with trees bending like some sleepy hollow scenes. Back in the days of the European settlers, the sea was the way of transport as the inland was heavily timbered and made access to the coastal towns difficult. But because of the wild weather, the sea became dangerous back in those days and there were many mishaps on ships. In Catlins, there are many places where history of shipwrecks can be found.

As our motel was just beside the highway 1, a simple left turn and we were in the traffic flow. There was much much traffic today since it was Monday and many trucks seemed to be heading north. It was just a short drive while we kept a lookout on the road for the sign board that pointed where to do the right turn into the Catlins. There are many roads to turn southwards, so if you miss one, there are still others. Just make sure that you don’t reach the town of Gore.

Looking down the cliff at the Catlins coastline

Our 1^st stop in the Catlins was the beach at Waipapa Point, the location of the major shipwreck, the SS Tararua, a steamer ship, which struck the reef, causing the death of most of the passenger and crew back in 1881. Since the incident, a wooden lighthouse was built back in 1884 and now the light house is automated and runs on solar powered.  Before we reached the Waipapa point, we followed some signboards and ended on a cliff overloading the south Catlin coastline. We parked our car almost near the top on the grassy land, close to the cliff but of course not too close. The chilly morning wind from the sea, coupled with the warm sun and of course the view, it was a very relaxed and enjoyable moment just being there.   

Open car park near Waipapa Point

Lighthouse at Waipapa Point

 

Walking on the Waipapa Point beach

At the Waipapa Point beach

 

Next we drove to Waipapa Point. There was a big open car park and a toilet for visitors. As it was still early in the morning, there were only us and 2 more cars parked at the car park. It was a short 15mins walk from the car park to the beach where the lighthouse was built. Out into the sea, we could see some of the rocks extending out into the sea. Under high waves, these rocks are definitely a danger to ships.  We roamed around the breach and onto the rocks, we were the only people there and it was like having the entire place to yourself.  When we were back at the car park, a small mini bus just arrived bring a group of tourists. It looked like one of those day trips provided by the local tour operators covering the attractions at the Catlins area.

Gate leading to the Slope Point

The often seen tourist signboard indicating an attraction

 

Next stop was Slope Point. Slope Point is the most southern point of NZ South Island. Access by road only reaches along the Slope Point road, and the actual location is a short walk across sheep grazing land in order to reach. When we reached the palace, there weren’t any car park and so everyone just parked their cars by the roadside. The sign board says 20mins to Slope Point, but for Asians like us with short legs, it took us about 30mins. The walk from the road to the Point was great for a good sunny weather.  Halfway along the unmark path, we had to walk towards the slope point structure and not follow the grazing land path. From the edge of the Slope Point, it was yet again another steep drop to the beach below. There seemed to be many cliffs along the coastline. Maybe because of the strong elements of nature that carved out such landscape.

Looks like a weather instrument at Slope Point

At Slope Point

Standing near the cliff at Slope Point

It was only around 12noon and we left Slope Point and headed to our next destination. The Petrified Forest at Curio Bay. Why it is called petrified? Like in movies of Harry Potter where they cast spells that stoned the person. It was said that back in the Jurassic period, NZ was a part of the land mass linked to Australia and Antarctica. And with active volcano and lava that buried the forest and fossilized the trees. Over the millions of years the elements of the sea washes and uncover the layers exposing these fossils. They may look like tree trunks but they feel like any other stones. Another attraction at this petrified forest are the Yellow Eyed Penguins which comes out of their nests and headed to the see at sunrise and comes back home from the daily catch in the sea during sunset.

Inside the room @ Salthouse Motel

 

Curio Beach just outside our room

Our motel for the night was the Salthouse Motel located at Curio Bay, just 5 mins drive from the Petrified Forest. We decided to try if we could check in earlier just to leave our luggage and get the keys so that we would not disturbed the hosts later. The hosts were kind enough to allow us to check in and spent some time telling us about the penguins and what time they would come back from the sea.  It was time for lunch, but there weren’t any that we could find. There is no town at Curio Bay, and our motel is just one of the houses along the Waikawa-Curio Bay Road which is the only road that leads to the Petrified Forest. 

Whistling Frog Cafe for lunch

Sandwich for lunch

We took to the road again heading into the inner Catlins forest area of Chasland. We drove pass the small town of Waikawa and proceeded up north before turning right onto the Chasland highway. It seemed the road was only leading deeper into the forested area with no signs of civilization. It wasn’t a good sign when one is looking for lunch. Finally we came across the only eatery called the Whistling Frog which runs a café, and cottages accommodation deep within the Chasland area.  We were the only diners there and quickly got ourselves food to fill our tummy. The food was great and tasty; and café itself was like a tourist centre with information as well as display to keep us occupied while waiting for the food. I had read about the place while searching for accommodation in the Catlins area; and there weren’t many. The road entrance to the McLean Falls begin from a side road near the café. We took a quick drive across some farm house and reached the trail head of the Falls.

Visiting the McLean Falls

At the falls

Terraces of water capture in slower speed

The Mclean Falls track, from its name will allow hikers to see a waterfall. The distance of the track from the car park to the falls and return is 2km, takes about 50mins to an hour depending on the pace and how long you spend at the waterfall. The walk was pleasant and not difficult, passing through a few bridges over streams. The surrounding forest was dense and with the sounds of the flowing river, it quite cooling and relaxing stroll. The waterfall pours itself into a rock pool at the top before flowing down terraces of stairs-like rocks. I followed the sides and climb to the upper pool which was a great spot of swimming if the water is not too cold.

Climb up to the pool area of the waterfall

We got back to the car park and continued to drive on. We did not check the timing of the Cathedral Caves beforehand and was actually planning to visit the next day. So we continued on the southern scenic route to the entrance of the Cathedral Caves. Got the timings for the next day, but it was not suitable for us as we need to be in Oamaru to see the blue penguins.  Come to think of it, maybe it was still doable but timing will be very rush.

Timing Schedule at the Cathedral Caves

We planned not to drive too far away out of the Catlins forest area, leaving the rest to the next day for places like Nugget Point. We drove to a lookout point called the Florence Hill  Lookout point. The view was fantastic over here, and with the late afternoon weather and clear skies, it was a good place to be to see the southern ocean. This location marked the U-turn point for us for the day.  

Nice view of the sea, the beach and the sky

Another DOC signboard

A small rock island near the coast

There was a short stop just on the return trip from the Florence Hill Lookout point, at Lake Wilkie. It was just a short walk from the roadside. From the description, it sounded like the lake doesn’t have much of an appeal for water activities since it was termed a “bog lake”  filled with plankton, mites, molluscs and worms. We left after a short while.   

Write up on Lake Wilkie

Lake Wilkie

It was only 4pm and knowing how difficult to find a place for meals without having to drive into the bigger towns, we decided to stay around the Whistling Frog café and wait out for dinner to be served. So we just parked our car at the café car park and rest awhile.

Back at the Whistling Frog Cafe car park

Around 4:30pm, we headed back to the café and ordered dinner. The staff recognized use and gave us yet another welcoming smile. I frankly told the staff that dinning café not easy to find in this part of the Catlins.  We had the most relax dinner, without having to rush for anything. The drive back to Curio Bay seemed longer than we came, and it took us about an hour to get back to our motel.  Our room has a full view of the beach and the patio has a path to walk to the beach. It was really a dream house to have a place to stay by the beach,  listening to the sound of the waves. The length of the beach should cover a few kilometers. An after dinner stroll on the beach would seem romantic and pleasant.

At the car park near the Petrified Forest

Fossilized tree stumps near the sea

 

Signboard on Yellow eyed penguin

It was about 7pm, and we drove out back to the Petrified Forest to see if we could spot any penguins.  There were signboards at the area explaining to visitors how to behave when out in the open seeing the penguins. Things like to stay at least 12m away from them and also not to make loud noises. While just standing on some of the rocks, we heard sounds from the bushes behind us. Initially we thought of rats or small animals on the beach looking for food. But then in between the bushes appeared a penguin. Obviously everyday they have their fixed path to take to get back to their nests. While we were fixated to the bushes, a few just came back from the sea. Pausing at waiting at the rocks just above the waterline, looking for a good time to cross into the bushes. Some of us tried to walk away to give them more space. Some penguin jumped back into the sea and surfaced on some rocks much further away from us. It was our first encounter with such penguins in the wild. Maybe after all we did not need to go all the way to Oamaru to see the blue penguins.  We spent about an hour sitting on the rocks at Petrified Forest watching the penguins hopping around. 

It was a short 5 mins drive back to the motel for the nights rest. An eventful day for us, covering so many places and ending the day with a lucky encounter with the penguins. It was a good night rest with the sounds of the sea as our bedtime lullaby. It was totally pitch dark when we stared into the beach, only hearing the sound of the waves and seeing nothing else.

End of Part 5 

Proceed on to NZ South Island Part 6