Peanuts Travels: Cinque Terre, Italy

Cinque Terre, which means the "Five Lands" is a group of coastal villages located along the coastline of the Italian Rivera in the region of Liguria. Location between 2 cities of Genoa and La Spezie. The villages and the lands around these villages are all part of the Cinque Terre National Park, also an UNESCO World Heritage Site. We did not know about this place until we saw some pictures on the Internet and wonder where in the world this beautiful place is; and so trigger us on this trip to Italy just for this place. We spent 4 nights at Cinque Terre, based ourselves in the village of Riomaggiore. The following is a simple write up on Cinque Terre,as part of our 2 weeks holiday trip in Switzerland and Italy, based on what we saw and what we did in each of the 5 villages over these 4 days.

Panorama view from our room window of Riomaggiore

Riomaggiore

Riomaggiore Station

Train approaching Riomaggiore from La Spezie

Riomaggiore

Riomaggiore is the most southern town of the 5 villages. After visiting the 5 villages, Riomaggiore has more stairs than the others and the houses are mostly built on the rocks and the central main street is like the valley between 2 mountains. Well over here is like hills. The candy coloured building decorated the hill sides. The town is split between the residential and the tourist side by railway station tunnel that cuts through one of the hills. Residential is much quieter and peaceful, while the tourist side which has more dramatic view is.much alive with shops and restaurants and of course tourists. Each day groups.of visitors on hiking sticks arrive in train loads to do some hikes within the area. But sadly after so many years the Love Trail that runs from Riomaggiore to Manarola remains closed. Fees are still.collected to hike for the others that are still open. But this famous trail that runs along the coast over the underground train looked like will still be closed for extended period as read from the local website by the locals living there.

View from our room's window

View from Riomaggiore marina near the ferry jetty.

Boats for rental

Boat rental shop

We stayed at an apartment that is located up in the hill. Everyday we need to do some exercise to get breakfast and to return back to sleep. It was hard work in our arrival day , carrying a min 16kg pack up the stairs to our room. But the view was worth it. We get to see the sunset from our room with a prefect running air conditioned unit. And the beach is just a few minutes away.

We stayed 4 nights here in this town, making it our base for the Cinque Terre vacation. Shopping is limited to the few shops selling souvenir, and groceries shops if you intend to get some.local pesto or sauces for your pasta back home. Restaurants more or less selling the same thing and everywhere in Italy you see gelato shop. After visiting almost all.of them, the best is the one just next to the Bar Centrale restaurant. Not the restaurant but the one just next to it on the right. Really love it among all the gelato we had since our arrival at Italy.

The town can also be reached by ferry from the other towns. The ferry runs from Port Venere to Monterosso and goes both ways, stopping at each town to.pick and drop.off passengers. If you are short of time, can just hop onto the ferry and see each town from sea in a quick short time. But do recommended to go into each town to explore them. Each town does have shops that sells things that are local to their town, items that are not factory made elsewhere to be sold here.

The jetty is just 2 mins from our room after descending the flight of narrow stairs to reach the.marina and beach area. The town has a rocky beach, I wouldn’t say is a beach as there is no sand. It is a smooth or gentle slope area fill with rocks that people go to have a swim there and do some sunbathing.

A tourist crowd spot for taking picture of this view.

Many of the visitors would crowd around the ferry ticket area which is a hot photo spot to take picture of the hamlet used tourism or advertisement photo of the place. The steeper or higher side of the hill where the clock tower stands has many accommodations as well. But be prepared to do.some heavy hard legwork getting to the rooms. At the top stands a chapel and an old castle that has a clock tower. Every now and then the clock will announced itself with a bell chime. Even late into the night you can hear it even with our double glass window.

As for the train station, Riomaggiore is considered my of the major train stops in Cinque Terre, and that includes Monterosso as well. The other 3 stations will have lesser train frequency. When our train came from Genova, it only stops at Monterosso and Riomaggiore only, skipping Vernazza, Corniglia and Manarola. And being the first town from the south, tjose that came from Porto Venere by ferry will make this their first stop.

Taking the ferry from Riomaggiore to Monterosso

View of Riomaggiore from the sea

Same Riomaggiore (train station side)

We spend our remaining day of arrival by taking the ferry to visit the other towns by sea and alighted at Monterosso. The only town of the 5 towns that has a real beach.

Monterosso

Monterosso beach area (right side of town)

Castle converted restaurant

Wedding functions at the castle

Statue near the castle of Monterosso

We arrived by ferry and landed at the midpoint between 2 sections of the beach area. There was a small rock hill just near the jetty and we did some legwork going up to see the view. There is a restaurant there but fully booked for a wedding function. Seems like these castle like restaurants are hotcakes for.private functions and usually the items on the menu will be much higher than tjose offer in non so iconic locations.

We walked along the beach area and settle for a restaurant that has available table by the beach. The sun has already set and not much of view. The beach chair staffs were like flattening the sands where their beach chairs and umbrellas were placed to prepare for the next day of business. By the time we had our dinner, many of the shops were closed. Didn’t explore the inner parts of the town and so just bought train tickets for the short ride back to Riomaggiore for the night’s rest.

Corniglia and Vernazza

Village of Corniglia (up on the hill top)

Corniglia Station

Corniglia station, all peace and quite after the train left.

The long flight of stairs to the village of Corniglia

It was a sunny day today as well. We had our breakfast in Riomaggiore before taking the train to Corniglia. It cost 4 Euro per train ride within the Cinque Terre area, even just one stop. You can buy the Cinque Terre train pass for 1 day or 2 day that include the trekking fee. So do your maths if you intend to purchase this card. The per day hiking.pass is 7.50 Euro as of time of this writing.

Corniglia is the only town that does not have access by sea, it is.perched on a hill top high above the sea. The train station sits at the same height with the rest of the other town’s train station. Train cant climb too steep and need special train and tracks for that. We took the train to Corniglia and began the long and hard climb to the top of the hill where the town stood. Some article mentioned 365 steps but we didn’t count and just focus on the climb itself. Weather was good. Too good that it was really warm to do the climb of stairs at that moment. At the top and with a further 50m to the left is the town square. The entrance to the old street to the left and the residential area to the right and the hiking trail from this town to Vernazza.

Corniglia town square

When we reach the town square. There are 2 groceries shop and we went straight to the cold drinks section to reward ourselves for the climb. There is a cool.shaded area where many just sit there and enjoy their drinks away from the scorching sun. Since it is September, as long as you can find shade it will be cooling to rest. Unshaded, I bet the temperature could go up by 5 degree Celsius. This shaded area offer a good view of the main street shopping entrance with tourists going in and.coming out.

Way to the hiking trail to go to Vernazza

At the open area outside the church

Church at Corniglia

View of the sea from Corniglia church open space

The narrow alley way is decorated with colors by the items the shops sell and colourful chalkboard style drawings on display board showing the items that they are selling esp for food and beverages. The walkway is narrow that is created a sense of quaintness and relaxing moment walking through the street. It is a one way street and at the end you can see the sea below. There is a café at the end that gives its customers view of the sea below while enjoying their coffee or beer. The narrow alley offers good photo taking, on a blue skies day you can get a good color combi of the blue skies, green wooden doors, yellow painted walls, green plants and bright color flowers into a single picture. Most of the food shops here are not full scale restaurant type, usually those selling breads, buschetta, pizza and palanni and sandwiches. Drinks variety is the same across all and prices too.

Beautiful decor of the shop entrance

Walking along the narrow alleyway of shops and cafes

The village main shopping alleyway

Very unique experience , yet not too crowded

Bright green door blended nicely with the wall colour and the sun

Finally a shot without people (cafe to the left at the end)

Cafe tables and umbrellas (cafe kitchen was along the alleyway where we came from)

We had a light lunch in the open where the café is.located along the main walking street and the staff has to carry the food serving tray from there down the street and into a small garden area down a flight of stairs. Maybe it is still summer period, everyone likes to dine outside. Maybe it is the atmosphere that it creates or they just love the sun. From where we came from, we usually stay away from the sun.

After our lunch. We took on the hiking trail from Corniglia to Vernazzo. Following the street at the town square, we went up the street towards tge church and made the left turn to head towards the end of the town. At the end is the main road for cars and right there stands a kiosk run by the Cinque Terre national.park to check for valid tickets into the hiking trail. We bought our tickets there to do the short hike to Vernazzo.

Ticket control gate (can buy tix here)

Hiking path with stonned steps between Corniglia and Vernazza

Looking back at Corniglia from the hiking trail to Vernazza

Welled maintained trail. Very safe.

On the hiking trail, Vernazza is beyond the other side of this land mass

Warm and dry day for hike. Well better than wet and rainning.

On brochures it says it takes about 2 hours to get from Corniglia to Verrnazzo. We took a slow hike and resting at many places to.enjoy the view and took in total 2.5 hrs to reach Vernazzo. Under the hot sun, we didn’t find it scenic most of the time. Maybe it is the hot sun that makes things distant away cloudy and too bright. Photos didn’t came out pretty and vintage view points are limited. I guess it is more to experience the type of trails and difficulty for the hike. We took.on the hike.in our city sneakers, left the hiking boots that we used in Switzerland in our room. On a good dry day, it does do the job. But hiking boots is recommended.for wet weather where the rocks may be slippery.

Prevo, a tiny village along the hiking trail.

Where we came from

Fresh orange juice for sale, drinks and beverages and toilet

The only building that is built along the hiking trail.

The trail passes through a small section that has a building right in the middle of the length of the trail. This is the only place that you can get an ice cold drink, coffee and even beer. It does have a tempting signboard inviting thirsty hikers to.drop in for a drink. The bar has cartons of used oranges stack outside. It does create a sense of freshness in the trail after all the dust and green from the trail and suddenly you get to see bright oranges tucked in.one corner of the must walk path. The bar is located like.out of nowhere with village blue plate mounted above the walkway that says “Pevo”. We didn’t see any other route except the one we were hiking. This pink wall building really stands out very special.along this trail. Wonder how the bar owner survived on this business just from hikers along this trail. One.more important aspect of getting hikers to spend is their toilet. That is the only toilet between Vernazza and Corniglia hiking trail. The sign on the toilet says that it is not a public toilet. So if you need to use it, you have to buy something from them. Since hikers are already paying for the hike, maybe the authorities could pay for the use of the service offer by the bar owners.
From this point called Pevo, it a downhill all the way to Vernazza. We saw people climbing up from Vernazzo and it is definitely more tiring than those that hike from Cogniglia. Well you have to pay the price of the legwork climbing up to Corniglia first. But again? The hike from Corniglia to Vernazza is a.much easier hike.

Near the trail ticket control gate (background Vernazza)

Love Locks.

Just before reaching the hiking trail inspection kiosk, there is popular photo spot for taking the picture of the Vernazza castle tower from the back. The picture is well found on travel websites and brochures as well. Beyond this point is a short way down to the main tourist street of Vernazza. And atbthe same spot that you step onto the main street. Directly across is the red and white markings that shows the continuation of the trail towards Monterosso.

Coastal village of Vernazza with the tower castle

Descending into the town

Suddenly the trail drops you into the centre of town. The trail continues from here.

Vernazza is well.photographed for its enclosed marina from the opposite hills, one that is.part of the paid hiking trail to use. The checkpoint kiosk is placed before the photo shoot spot and so for those that just want to go up to take picture, they have to pay the hiking fee. Some folks turned away after hearing the price just to go up and take pictures. For us, since we paid it for the day, we continued up the hiking trail to the spot to take pictures.

Contiuned on the hiking trail after Vernazza up to the most photographed spot for the marina

The trail continues to this scenic spot (need your hike pass ticket to be here)

After this we explored the small town, going into shops and checking restaurant menus. We spent quite a fair bit of time sitting at the marina.just looking at the crowd of tourist walking around. Boarding boats for their boat tour and stuff.

At the town only small beach area with the restaurants and marina

Street of Vernazza (train station infront)

Streets of Vernazza

Buildings along the main street of Vernazza

Vernazza marina and the church.

There is a castle tower that we visited as well. Yes there is an entrance fee but is for a good cause for. some charity. So we didn't mind paying the Euro 1.50 per pax for.it. We stayed at the castle top to see the sunset. There were a few restaurants around the marina area. Some open all the way while some opens at 7pm for the evening crowd. We just picked one that looks okay and staff was friendly and welcoming. I guess maybe it is end summer and not too crowded and so staff can handle the crowd and bot get into a grumpy.mode.

Vernazza castke tower overlooking the sea and marina

Waiting for sunset at the castle tower

View of the marina from the town's castle

Sunset light rays on the town

Waiting for the sunset at the castle tower

Sunset finally

After dinner, we walked a.little.more along the main tourist street before taking the train back to Riomaggiore. The train frequency tapered off to 1 hr after 9pm and missing the train would need to wait another hour.

Street of Vernazza at night

Night view of the Vernazza marina

Restaurants all lit up for the evening dinner crowd.

Pizza Alfungi for dinner

Clams Pasta

Porto Venere and Manarola

Originally planned for Manarola today only, but from the past few days, covering a town for an entire day seems too much. I was just keen to visit the picturesque coastal town in the evening time when the lighting by the evening sun will be good for the must do photo taking of the town’s small marina. I read about a nearby coastal town, Porto Venere, a town that is not part of the famous Cinque Terre, but a place worth the visit due to its close proximity to the towns of Cinque Terre. Besides it can be easily accessible from any of the coastal towns of Cinque Terre.

PortoVenere

Porto Venere,which means Port Venere, is a coastal town along the same Ligurian coast of Italy, the same as the other towns of Cinque Terre. The town sits in the province of La Spezia as one of the 3 villages of the province. Both Porto Venere and the 5 towns of Cinque Terre were designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Porto Venere is not served by trains and getting there from anything of the Cinque Terre towns the fastest way is via the ferry that runs on a schedule. If you time you logistic travelling well, you can get there in a mere 20mins on the ferry from the nearest village of Riomaggiore. If you miss the schedule, the maybe taking the train to La Spezia and taking the bus from there could be faster. It is all about timing. I found the ferry mode of getting there more convenient.

1st ferry from Monterosso heading to Portovenere

Ferry leaving Riomaggiore for Portovenere

We took the 1st ferry coming from the direction of Monterosso. The ferry will end at Porto Venere which was where we were going. We the ferry arrived, we saw the groups of tourist alighting at Riomaggiore. The amount of people going to Porto Venere was much fewer as in the morning many will begin their Cinque Terre visiting. The ferry ride was relaxing as the boat was less crowded and the morning weather was great for a open deck ride on the fast ferry.

Approaching the fortress gurading the sea port entrance

Church within the fortified walls of the castle grounds

Approaching the row of houses (Palazzata) facing the sea of Portovenere

The Palazzata

At the Portovenere pier

The ferry entered the sheltered waters of the village, passing by the fortified castle and church of St Peters that stood like a guard tower over the entrance of the port. It was quite majestic like some movie scene. The ferry docked at the marina just besides the town square. One distinct and featured characteristics of the town was the candy bar coloured houses, narrow in a way and all lined up nicely without any gaps, facing the marina as ferries come and go. This row of houses is called the “Palazzata”. There were restaurants lining these houses that faces the marina. Behind these row of houses stands the fortified town. I believed that is the old town that lies behind the old fortified walls.
There was a morning market at the town square and locals and tourists were there browsing through their wares. The items were much cheaper than the shops, quality may be different but we got ourselves some nice kitchen wares like porcelein wares for a few Euros.

Morning market near the town square

Stalls just outside the castle wall gate

The Town Square (castle gate to the left)

Shop just outside the wall gate

The narrow gate into the fortified town area

Shops and cafe and restaurants lined the narrow street

The small gate at the end

Olive oil produce

The town is like famous for its pestos and olives

From the town square, there is a small gate that open to the old street within the old town walls. It was exactly like those in the movies with gate portcullis with spikes at the top. Entering the gate was like walking back time, but the immediate view of the café, gift shops bring you back to reality. The street was the width for a car only, but enough room for people to enjoy the shaded walk. There were many shops that lines the walkway all the way to the open grounds of the St Peter’s Church (Church of San Pietro). The same church that guards like towers over the sea entrance. There are some art shops along the street, one ghat caught out attention was the one that is off the main street, up some stoned stairs to a workshop like shop where the owner does porcelin type artwork like fishes and boats in a very artistic yet stylish way that can fit into any homes as beautiful souvenir decors.

Lotsa artwork stuffs to look at and buy

Porcelain fishes

At the end of the old main street, it opens to a wide open area where the church stands at the far end of the corner. We could tell that this was part of the castle grounds where the castle stood to our right up a hill. The Castello Doria, or in english as Castle Doria.

A sheltered bay for swimmers and sunbathers.

Clear green waters for swimmers to enjoy

On the right side while facing the church, you could see the clear waters below. There were people sunbathing and swimming in the sheltered water, protected by the rocks and land that form this cove like area for people to enjoy.

The side wall of the church

The church tower with the Portovenere bay and La Spezie in the distant

At the roof top of the church

The stone stairs leading to the roof of the church

View of the Liguria coastline in direction of Cinque Terre

The coastline in the direction of Riomaggiore

Looking at the Portovenere and the Palazzata.

A big window for detecting pirates?

One of the wall opening looking out to the open sea

We explored around the church grounds, and at the lower walls, there were openings like those used by archers in medieval times for defence. The church is open to visitors and you could get to the roof area of the building to have an unobstructed view of the sea below. This is the place where the passengers on the open deck ferry could see and wave to you and vice versa.

Rooftop where the ferry passenger can wave to people on this roof top

From the church grounds, facing the town’s main street, to the right runs a path that would bring you pass some residential houses, climb some stairs to get to the castle grounds at the top of the hill. This place is another vantage point to see the view of the sea and the town below. Entrance to the castle cost 5 Euros to enter. We did not visit the interior of the castle and were just happy just to see the castle steep walls and the garden around it. Come to think of it, we should have gone in to look at a the castle that wsa said to date back to the 12 or 15th century period. Reading some history about the town was interesting too, the change of hands by the Romans, the French and civil war between Genoa and La Spezia.

At the corner of the Castle Doria.

Castle Doria

Ruins of what left of the castle ground buildings

Garden before the Castle entrance

View from the Castle Doria grounds of the Church of Portovenere

The town of Portovenere from the hill top

Back at the fortress small gate entrance and exit

After visiting the castle ground, we took a different route that led us back to the old town’s main old street. It was back to some light shopping, visiting the shops and of course looking for a place for lunch. IN the end we found an average restaurant along the “Palazzata”. Ordered a pizza and pasta. Too many days of such food but choices were limited maybe for us and we were really getting tired of pizzas and pastas. Some were good while some are just food.

The Palazzatta

The red "submarine" excursion boat.

Lunch place.

After checking the ferry schedule, We took the 4pm boat that departs from Porto Venere heading towards Monterosso. Our next drop off point will be the picturesque village of Manarola.

Leaving Portovenere for Manarola

The church at the castle walls (different afternoon lighting)

Ferry moving at fast speed towards Cinque Terre

Manarola is one of the busiest tourist place among the 5 towns. Once we landed at the marina, we would see the crowd of tourist roaming the main street. It was quite a total difference between the other towns. Manarola is small in terms of tourist area, not looking at the residential area. It is very very close to Riomaggiore, but the only way by land is bus and train. There was hiking trail called the Love Trail that runs from Riomaggiore to Manarola. From the sea you can see that the walk trail with railings clearly. From the locals, it has been closed for many years and seems like they will remain closed.

Panoramic view of Manarola

Ferry stopping at Manrola

We spent the remaining time visiting each and every shops that we can while waiting for the sunset to come in. That is when everyone, or those photography enthusiasts will walk up to the sloped hill opposite the marina and wait for the best moment to take picture of the village with the marina for sunset and the night shot. Well, I am one of them.

Tunnel to the train station

Lesser number of shops and restaurants compared to the other villages

Candy bar coloured buildings

At the Manarola marina area

The Manarola marina

Making our way up the walking path to the standard best photo shoot location

The iconic must take position of Manarola

Me (Shot taken by wifey)

The number of shops and restuarants were limited and after 2 hours we have every shops covered. With the extra time, we just walked up the sloped path to the hill looking down at the marina and the village, found ourselves a nice shady spot and sit and wait for the sunset.
As the hours gone, more and more people came along with tripods and some even set them up “booking” the spot where they would be taking the photographs.

Panoramic view of sunset Manarola

Sunset view of Manarola

Waiting for night fall

The must take night view of Manarola

It was about 8 pm before the conditions were good for night shots. We had our dinner at Manarola before taking the train back to Riomaggiore. Just for one stop of less than 5mins, cost 4 Euros. Taking train along the Cinque Terre area is fixed rate at 4 Euros.

Last day at Cinque Terre

The last day at Cinque Terre, we stayed put in our village of Riomaggiore. After a relaxing and slow breakfast in the village/town, we went exploring the neighbourhood. Made our way again back to the small castle at the top of the village which should be the highest point of the village. There was an elementary school at the top just next to the castle. The castle was built back in the 1260s to use to ward off attacks from barbarians.

Narrow walkway along residential buildings to the hilltop castle

Every corner is a photograph candidate

Steps and blue skies.

Short cut or long way to the train station?

Chapel at the top of the hill next to the Castle

Castle at the highest point of Riomaggiore

Making our way from the castle down to the train station cafe

Riomaggiore train station (view from the opposite hill)

Getting closer to the train station, just above it

A quick lunch drink at the cafe above the train station

Our lunch at the cafe above the train station (near the love trail)

The Love Trail from Riomaggiore to Manarola (closed for years already)

For lunch, we made our way to the little café just besides the train station, up a flight of stairs, just along the entrance of the Love trail that is closed that leads to Manarola in the past. Searching on the web, there is also a popular hiking route that runs from Riomaggiore to Portovenere. It is a 5 hour route that run along the sea and crossing into small villages that was dotted along the hills facing the sea. These are the same ones that we saw from the ferry when we went from Riomaggiore to Porto Venere the day before. If time permits, one should try this route and they can reward themselves after the 5 hour hike at the restaurants at Portovenere.

After lunch, we went back to the village centre to do a detailed sweep of the shops going into each and everyone as part of our last day at Riommagiore.

Riomaggiore's small marina area

Near the small marina area

Add caption

Riomaggiore's small marina area

Main shopping and restaurant street

Fried snacks, no bad.

Main shopping street

Buy alot of wooden fishes here

Our breakfast table

At the village square, a place for children to run around and play (only open flat space)

At the village play square (no shops)

The play area, children could run around easily

The children's bicycles all park at this open court area

The Italian laundry hanging culture shot

A boy taking a break from his running and chasing around his siblings

Candy bar coloured buildings

The most photographed red building.

Yellow coloured building facing the sea

View from the yellow building above (rooms for rent)

So tempting the water for a jump.

Back to room for a rest. Cant stop taking pictures of this view

As for the afternoon, it was beach time. We went to the only rock “beach” tuck away in a far corner after the ferry boarding rocks area. Here is the long stretch of the coast that is gentle enough to be used for beach activity purposes. It is all rocks, so don’t imagine you can play volleyball or beach sports here.

At the Riomaggiore only rock beach

I had a swim at this rock beach. The rocks come in all sizes. The side of the beach nearer the entry point are smaller in size and allow the swimmer to walk less “painful” into the sea. I tried the right side and getting into the water was no easy task. I had to balance around and avoid slipping as the waves comes in could throw you off balance. Maybe it was just me. There were no fishes that I could see, the rocks were slippery for some of them and so do be careful when getting in and out of the sea.
With the swim and watching the sunset at Riomaggiore, that ended our last day at Riomaggiore. The next morning we would be leaving Cinque Terre and making our way back to Milan before the flight home.