Climbing the Galdhøpiggen (Norway)

Galdhøpiggen is the highest mountain in Norway, Northern Europe and the entire Scandanavian, with an altitude of 2469m located in the Jotunheimen mountain area. A guided climb to the peak can be done from the nearest Juvasshytta mountain lodge, or from the longer Spiterstulen mountain lodge.

We had check-in into the Juvasshytta on the 27 May 2011 just to join the guided climb to the peak. A guide was needed as the route from Juvasshytta needs to cross the Styggebreen glacier. No guide is needed if you climb from Spiterstueln mountain lodge whereby the route bypass the glacier.

28 May 2011, The Climb to the Roof of Norway, The Galdhøpiggen (2469m)

I was awaken by the light of the morning sun, meaning a good weather for the climb. The skies were blue and the sun was bright. The snowing has stopped, only to leave behind a layer of thin snow on the vehicles parked outside the building. Occasionally, mist of cloud came over the lodge and blocked out the sun temporarily. It seemed a good day to climb in the beginning. 

Clear blue skies, but still thick clouds around

Sun and moon sharing the same sky

 

We had breakfast at the dining area at 8am and we were the only ones and one climber sharing the entire dining area. Breakfast was simple but sufficient. There were breads, hams, eggs, cereals, cheese, coffee, tea and juices. At this time, the weather was still good. The climb only starts at 10am, so we had lot of time to walk around the lodge under the good weather.

Breakfast at Juvasshytta before the climb

 

The area around our parked car was semi-frozen with a layer of ice. Water was actually flowing underneath it. We almost had a few stumbles as we were walking on ice with just hiking boots. As the time drew closer to 10am, cars started coming in with people going for the climb. The other lodge Raubergstulen also organizes this Galdhøpiggen climb with Juvasshytta, and you have to drive your way up to Juvasshytta lodge to join in the rest of the people like us waiting at Juvasshytta.  

Light coat of snow on our car in the morning

At 10am, all the climbers gathered outside the lodge and we were briefed on how long the climb and how high we will be ascending. The distance from the lodge to the summit is about 6km with an ascend of 600m. Initially this doesn't sound that difficult to me as we have done ascend of about 1200m in a day like Kota Kinabalu and Hallasan and Mt fuji. But little did we expect the weather to be that harsh.

A walk outside the lodge after breakfast

Attending a briefing before the climb

We left the lodge on foot taking a direct path across a field of snow and rocks. There was no inclination and more of finding the easier rock to step on. The area was huge and you can pick any way to walk in the common direction. There was no marked trail. Maybe it is because we are still in the winter season up at this altitude. The weather was still kind, with little light wind and great sunlight. 

Pick any path you like. Just go in the right direction

Walking on snow. Weather was good

In less than an hour, we reached parts of a ski field and were starting to walk on powder ice. Every step we took sank in slightly because of our weight. We being Asians with smaller built and lighter in weight didn’t sink too much into the snow. But at times, we got snow up to knee deep. The climb started to get steeper and harder to climb. We started to feel the strain and the idea of being an easier climb was no longer in my mind. As this was the 1st day the climb to the summit was opened, the route to the top is all covered deep in the snow. There wasn’t any trail to follow and we just follow the guide in a common direction and walked all over the snow. Me and wife were starting to trail behind. Well, we have shorter legs and every step the European climbers took is like 2 steps for us. 

Walking on snow towards the glacier

As we continued to make our way through the powder snow, the weather started to turn bad. Strong winds were started to build up, sweeping snow from the ground and slapping us all over our body. This was still tolerable and with our 3 later clothing and scarfs, we were still able to focus just on the arduous climb. After an hour plus, we reached the point before the Styggebreen glacier where we need to cross it to continue our ascend. While the guides went on to prepare the ropes to hook everyone up in a line, everyone take the opportunity to grab a snack and rest themselves for the crossing. In full summer, the glacier will be a big block of ice and the use of crampons is a must. But for us at this time of the month, the entire glacier was covered in thick snow. We can't tell that it is a glacier as it was fully covered with thick snow. This made it more dangerous as we might be walking across covered crevasses which may give way. From what we heard from the guide, the crevasses can be 10m wide and 60m deep. So it is very important that everyone is strapped to the rope. All of us were made to wear a upper body harness for the glacier crossing. Since the glacier was covered in snow, we were not given any crampons as the guide says that we can cross the glacier without them.

While waiting to cross the glacier

The guides were setting up ropes to cross the glacier

All roped up and ready to cross the glacier

Crossing the Styggebreen glacier

Rest stop with the glacier behind us. Non-stop glacier crossing.

Yes, true enough we could walk on the powder snow over the glacier. But after the glacier, there were some steep climbing to the top which i really wished they had given us crampons. As it is still full winter up there near the top, there was no trail to follow, we just follow the guide on the snow path up. And at those steep rocky areas, the path was actually frozen ice, making it very slippery to climb. Many times our shoes gave way and we ended up falling off to the slide and at times landed on all fours. The windy condition at this point was getting from bad to worst. Winds were churning up snow and smacking right into our face and the cool really bit into every exposed part of our face. From this point onwards, it was the most difficult climb i had ever experience in terms of the bad weather and the steep snow path i had to climb. I was questioning myself what i have signed up for. 

We are almost there at the summit.

Finally just a few steps more

I know we were almost near the top but it was a blizzard condition at this point. It is like trekking across the north pole like those arctic documentary. The blizzard was strong near the top that I was blown off balance and landed in the snow as my feet were already having great difficulty getting a grip on the snowy slope. I was the last person behind with the guide near me. And with cramps on both legs, the climb to the summit did not sound achievable to me. It was just 100m to the summit and i seemed to be stuck at the same point for 5mins. Every step forward in the blizzard was difficult. Maybe i was carry too much on my pack. Brought a 1.5 litre of water and some apples and snacks and with my SLR and videcam, i guessed the total packed weight goes to 7kg. The weather was so bad that no one even bothers to have a snack. Everyone just wanted to reach the top and descend.  My wife was actually 30m ahead of me, but was already struggling to battle against the strong snow winds that kept lashing at her face. 

At the summit, strong winds and snow lashing on our face

At the summit, beside the stone hut (closed)

 

After much struggling, i reached the summit. There is a stone hut at the top. but it was not opened at this time. The guide told us that it will only be open in June. I felt cheated as my motivation and scaling the blizzard condition was the warmth of the stone hut at the summit.  But it was closed and me and my wife just have to find a corner to shield ourselves from the snow winds. Little help came as the snow was blasting us from all directions. Being the highest point in Norway and having bad weather is really not a place to stay too long. I removed my gloves to take a picture and in 30 sec, it went numb. I quickly tried to wear back my glove but just could feel the fingers to glide my hands into them. Now I understand why the alpine climbers wear thick gloves that looked like your kitchen hand gloves to handle hot pots. My wife while sitting at a corner was starting to accumulate snow on her.

I took some hot water from my thermos and with numbed fingers quickly packed up my cameras and video into my backpack (all were frosted) and started our descend. The descend was much easier without the strain on the legs in climbing. instead we dig our boots into the snow to slide our way down. But once we reached the icy area of rocks, it was again fumbled and stumbled on the snow. The condition was not really suitable for a hike without crampons. During this type of weather and the condition of the climbing trail, i would say an alpine ice climb with crampons and ice picks.  When we reached the glacier again, we were roped up again. This time seeing the glacier from the higher altitude, the glacier was the largest glacier i have ever crossed. We are just crossing the glacier width and it seems it was 2 km wide When everyone is roped together; we have to walk with the local’s pace. For us, we had to walk faster in order to keep in pace. If we got too slow, the rope will tug on us and even someone fell on the snow, the person in front may just pull in along, preventing you from getting up. Finally we cleared the glacier and reached the rocky area beyond the glacier. For the return, once we were un-roped, all of us just walked on our own as the path back to the lodge was quite safe. The snow of much deeper when we started off. More effort was needed to walk but many times easier than going up. Finally we reached the warm lodge around 3:30pm.

A small group of the climbers were having a casual chitchat over their well-deserved hot beverages at the dining area. One of the elder climber told that this was his 4th climb but one of the most toughest climb. The climbing itself is not that difficult in summer where trails are marked and rock paths to the summit is easier to climb like steps. But in our case of spring, but still winter up at the summit, climbing is very difficult. The Caucasians and the locals were surprised that these 2 Singaporean from a city of no mountain and winter actually came and conquered the rooftop of Norway. Yes, i would expect snow during the climb, but not in a blizzard. I would this is the extreme weather for a climb in my life (i don't think i will be doing anything an arctic expedition).

We asked about any Asian tourist like us climbing Galdhøpiggen. Asians yes, from countries like japan and Korea who are active in such mountain climbing. But definitely not any Singaporeans yet. Hopefully I can find someone from Singapore that has climbed Galdhøpiggen that can defunct what the guide said. If not then me and my wife could be the first 2 person to climb Galdhøpiggen. Maybe not the first, but could be the first two to climb Galdhøpiggen in such harsh weather condition. I always had a resolution to scale a snowy peak, but climbing Galdhøpiggen in a blizzard is something that i had never imagined and can only been see on TV.

Driving out of the Juvasshytta lodge

 

Dinner at Lom before the drive to Andalsnes

At 4pm, we hopped back into our frozen car (cold engine was difficult to start at first) and drove down the asphalt road to highway 55 and back to the town of Lom for our late lunch cum dinner. It was a total change in landscape; from the blizzards of Galdhopiggen, to the lush greenery of the farmlands in Lom. After our dinner, we quickly hit the highway again taking route 15 back to E6 and switching to route E135 via Dombras to our next night accommodation at Trollstigen Resort near Andalsnes. It was a tired and strenuous day for us. 

On the road on E135 to Trollstigen Resort

Arriving at our cabin at Trollstigen Resort (2hr drive from Lom)

We reached our lodging for the night around 8:30pm, after a 2.5hrs drive from Lom.