This is 4th time I have climbing the same trail that leads to the famous Xueshan East Peak and the Main peak, but this time is for a different purpose, snow training. Although it will be good if I can scaled to the peak of the snow covered Main Peak, but the main purpose for this outdoor activity is solely for basic snow training. The training covers the basics of walking on snow and ice, learning the rope works for belaying in situations of falling into crevasses, slipping off a steep snow slope. Although Taiwan does not have much snow crevasses or glaciers, the area is well know for snow training for teams intending to venture overseas beyond Taiwan for much more serious snow and ice climbing.
In our case, as mentioned is basic snow walking or trekking appreciation. Our climb group has to go through a few lessons in classroom, learning the theory and practice before heading out to the outdoor. For me, I was just tagging along to learn and experience the snow and so regrettably I missed out a few lessons before my arrival into Taiwan to join the group for whatever training they have.
Day 1: Starting the Climb
It was 27th Feb 2018, when i met up with the guide and his training assistant in Taipei for the long drive over the Xueshan tunnel to Yilan and slowing up the winding mountain road into the Wuling Veteran Farm where the trail head is. We reached the trail head at night about 11pm. The night skies are cleared without any clouds and it was full moon and it provided enough night for the 3 of us to do our repacking at the car park before the fast hike to the 1st lodging, the Qika Lodge to meet the rest of the climb group. The rest of the folks started their journey earlier, started their climb before the sun set. By the time we got to the lodge, all of them were already in their sleeping bags.
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| Repacking at night at the car park area besides the ranger station |
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| Full moonlight |
From the trial head, we, okay, for me it was a record speed climb with a big pack on my back, then we reached the Qika lodge from the trail head to the lodge in less than 2 hours. Maybe the night was cooling and walking in the dark can really make you lost track of time and everything seemed to end faster than daylight. Once we reached the lodge, it was out with the sleeping bag and dozed away.
Day 2: Continuing the Climb
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| My gear. helmet, ice axe, hiking pole and my heavy SLR |
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| Guide checking on everyone backpack strap position |
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| Group photo on the climbs for this snow training activity |
The next morning was a greetings day with the rest of the climb members. We had our breakfast, gathered outside the lodge for some preparation, briefing and up the usual (and the only) route up the forest trail to the viewing platform before the Crying Slope (哭坡）。Slight drizzle and at times the rain was quite dense. As we continued the climb, the rain clouds seemed to be catching up with us.
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| Gear up for the rain. Light drizzle but it was continuously drizzling |
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| On the trail after leaving the Qika Lodge |
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| On the Crying slope (哭坡）looking down |
When we pass the East Peak, we didn't even want to do the short 3 mins summit from the trail as the weather was starting to get worst. From this point onwards, it was raining all the way. With the proper rain gear, it kept me dry all the way to the 369 lodge, but my everything else on the outside is all wet. The lodge was super crowded, the other climbers at the climb were so friendly offering hot drinks and helping to wipe dry our water dripping backpacks..It was around 2pm when we reached the lodge and progress was slow in the rain, trails were muddy and at places along the trail were submerged under water.
Having a crowded lodge in raining bad weather wasn't really an enjoyable place to be in. Everyone is making use of every small space inside the lodge to dry their water dripping gear. By dinner time, the rain has stopped and the skies seemed to be opening up.It was bedtime after dinner. Well there was nothing much to do over there.
Day 3: Full Day of Snow Training Begin
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| Sunrise outside the 369 Mountain Lodge |
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| A very good morning. |
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| Frozen icicle and ice plates on the kitchen sink |
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| The 369 Mountain Lodge ( always crowded) |
It was a beautiful day. The clouds have all disappeared and we could see the morning sunrise to the east where the lodge 369 is facing. It is a good day for training as the weather is warm and good. After breakfast, all of us gathered outside the 369 lodge and prepared our gear for the day of snow training. Harness, helmet, ice axe, crampons, sun shades are the mandatory items to be checked for before venturing out of the lodge to the snow fields.
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| Starting the climb from 369 lodge towards Black Forest |
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| Zig-zag trail. |
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| me with the backdrop of Xueshan North peak ( was there during our Holy-O trek) |
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| Entering the Black Forest |
Up the zig-zag trail from the 369 lodge towards the Black Forest we started. A good engine kick start for the body to get ourselves into the shady cool forest grounds. The sun was great to warm up our body and to dry up any wet gear that we had from the day before. There was no indication of ice or snow along this dry and open trail that is fully exposed to the sun.
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| Within the Black Forest |
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| Blue skies, green trees and white blanket of snow |
We entered the black forest and slowly made our way up the forest trail towards the main peak. only after we ventured deeper into the forest, gained some altitude that we started to spot remnants snow that was still in he process of melting down. The landscape changed from lush green to greenery with whites scattered all over the forest grounds. We put on our crampons as the trail started to be covered by snow and ice. When we reached the area where the non winter hiking trail is covered by snow, we follow the guide and just cut across the forest grounds over the snow. At times we came across what looked like the non winter forest trail based on the tree's markings.
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| Stepping onto the snow field. Lotsa UV to toast you up |
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| Guide+Trainer taking a picture of the group climbing up a steep slope after emerging from the forest. |
Our training ground is the area near the campsite area. We approached the campsite area and from there walked up a steep snow slop and entered the snow field area where our training would be conducted.
We did some walking around the sloped snow area, with and without crampons, learned how to use the ice axe properly for assisting us during a sloped climb, and using it to perform emergency ice arrest after simulating a slide down off a steep ice slope. We started with on the spot static practice before the doing the real thing. From a short sloped execution to a steep up in the slope where we have to walked up to about 80m up a steep slope and sliding down on our butts before executing a emergency ice braking using the ice axe. It was really an important technique to know when climbing snow slope. Sliding down an ice slope is no joke and can be lethal as one can be sling shot off a cliff and landing on hard surfaces that could break bones and end lives. It was there that i learned how to use and practice using it to perform a ice axe arrest. Not very pro and looked a little awkward, but it did help to bring me to a stop.
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| Me |
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| And the group of climbers (opphs. I was taking the picture) |
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| me doing some snow slop walking |
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| tea break time. |
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| Static ground practice session |
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| Static training, going thru actions |
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| Me feet and my antique ice axe (retro) |
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| Doing another steep climb on snow ground. |
We also did quite a fair bit of kick stepping. As in to walk up a snow slope without the use of crampons. The same went also for walking downhill without the use of crampons, but always in hand with an ice axe in case we need to execute an ice axe arrest to break the slide off.
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| Moving off to higher ground |
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| heading towards the steep rock with ice to the right side (deliberate detour) |
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| Taking a break from walking and photo taking |
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| Nice shot of the climbers, the sun and the snow |
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| Me taking the last man role (for some better photo taking) |
The team member also went ahead to practice their rope work, and had 3 to 4 climbers all roped up together and walking in a line and subsequently simulate a one member sliding off the snow slope. With the call a command from the others, all went down in an ice axe arrest position to create a V-shaped line to save the victim and from dragging everyone off the ground.
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| Practicing the 3 man, 1 man slide off |
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| "Rescue" in action |
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| Mt Xueshan Main peak is where the sun shines to the left |
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| Guide cum trainer giving instructions |
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| My Ice Axe (borrowed from guide) |
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| Getting much colder without the sun on the snow field |
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| Solo shot of the guide at the valley that has the trail that led to the main peak of Xueshan |
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| Xueshan Valley (圈谷） |
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| Me at the valley. Main peak so near where I am. |
The practice ended close to 4pm when the sun was beginning to set. We could felt the temperature dropping with the sun losing its shine on the snow mountain fields. We packed up our gear and began the walked down towards the Black Forest and to the lodge 369. While walking back to the lodge, it was already total darkness when we exited the black forest and seeing the lodge 369 with its limited solar powered lights. It was a great day for snow training with the blue skies and warm sunshine. I guessed everyone had a wonderful experience for the day and probably a good night sleeping through.
Day 4: Heading Back
Today we would be making our way back to the trail head for the drive back to Taipei. Weather was good for the morning with expected showers in the late morning. We left the 369 Lodge around 8 am to begin the slow walk down. Trying to stay clear of the incoming rain clouds that we saw over in the distance. We were lucky to leave the rain clouds behind and when we reached the East Peak, weather was till good for us, but we could see clouds forming near the main peak of Xueshan, but still no rain yet.
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| Looking back towards the 369 Mountain Lodge |
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| Looking in the direction of Mt Taoshan. |
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| My trusty old hiking pole. More than 10 years with me. please don't break. |
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| Me and our guide 晓飞 |
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| 4th time at the Xueshan East Peak |
From the main trail, I took a short 5mins break to walk up to the East Peak to claim my fourth ascent. Well the peak is just a few meters away from the trail with a steep shot climb only. So why not just claim a peak for this snow training session.
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| Group starting off from the rest point (seldom will get to see all together) |
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| Making our way after passing the East peak |
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| Same position, but different weather looking from the Crying slope |
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| At the viewing platform at the foot of KuPo(Crying slope) |
From there, it was a straight way down the few remaining rock outcrop and down the crying slope to the viewing platform at the foot of the crying slope. A further 2 hours walk and we were back at the Qika Lodge for a long break and some simple snacking as lunch. It was more of a rest stop for our stressed up knees with the continuous impact from the foot landing on the steps. Weather was warm at that time with no trace of rain. It was really warm.
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| Back at the ranger station carpark |
It was 12 noon and we were back at the trail head of the Xueshan East Trail. It was always a comfort to see the only building structure at the trail head which houses the ranger station and the public washroom; which marked the end of our days of adventure. The cherry blossoms were still blooming and it was such a beautiful sight to admire. Of course that will be best when I was siting under the share of a tree and enjoying the cool mountain air breeze. We had dinner again at our favourite restaurant place ( well at least for me and the guide) which serves roast chicken prepared in some stone build oven. Coupled with some delicious dishes and over refreshing beer and juices, that will always be one memorable post climb celebratory meal.
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| On the flight back to Singapore immediately after the climb |
It was about 7pm that we were back in Taipei. Had a quick wash up and prepared myself for the night flight back home to Singapore. I would think that this would not be my last climbing over snow. The experience is totally different from those that I have been to. I would see myself investing on gear for such activities and maybe in the near future would be back in Taiwan, looking for my guide for a mountain summiting during winter.
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