Norway in Spring 2011. Climbing Preikestolen (Part 6)

3 Jun 2011, Climbing the Preikestolen

Preikestolen, in English meant the Preacher’s Pulpit or the Pulpit Rock, is located in the region of Rogaland, western region of southern Norway. The top of the cliff is about 600m above the Lysefjorden, and the famous Kjerag plateau is on the other side of the fjord. This site is one of the most visited tourist attraction in Norway, even though the path to see the cliff is not easier to hike. The nearest big city will be Stavanger which can be reached by ferry plus car in 1 hour.

  

It was a rainy and cloudy morning at Bergen. Our activities for the day was to hike the Preikestolen. . The Preikestolen is located in the Rogaland region and it is a 5 hour drive plus 3 ferry crossings from Bergen to the town of Jopeland where Preikestolen is located. We woke up earlier for the day to catch the morning breakfast provided by the hotel at 6:30am. Nothing fancy about the breakfast for a pricey tag of 1580 NOK for a night. All hotels at Bergen are expensive but of course there are camp sites outside the city. 

Breakfast at Comfort Hotel Bergen

We finished our breakfast and check-out at 7:30am and started the long drive along highway E39 to Stavanger and then to Tau and finally Jopeland. It was fairly easy to drive, just follow the sign boards for E39-Stavanger. As we moved away from the Bergen area, the weather started to clear up a little with sunlight breaking through the clouds once a while. 

Existing a tunnel and crossing a bridge

1st ferry of the day from Hathjem to Sandvikvag

Just 45mins of driving from Bergen town centre, we reached the first ferry crossing from Hathjem to Sandvikvag, It was a 34mins ferry ride at a fee of NOK 250 for a small car with driver plus one passenger. In the passenger lounge, i realized that there was free Wi-Fi and started checking emails and Facebook updates. Only then i know that the ferries have Wi-Fi. Maybe the need the internet connections for their ticketing as they accept credit cards. 

Weather getting better. Blue skies and green grassland

After disembarking from the ferry, we continued on the same highway. The clouds seemed to have been broken up by the sun and after another 20mins driving, we were greeted with blue skies. We were hoping that today would be a good day for climbing.

So who is watching who?

It was another 2 hour drive from here to our next ferry Arsvagen to Mortavika. The fee was NOK 202 for car with driver plus one passenger ( car with driver = 166 NOK, passenger = 36 NOK). We just missed the ferry and had to wait for the next one. But now the weather has cleared up and the skies were true blue and the sun was shining bright. While waiting the for the ferry, we walked about visiting the only the cafe beside the jetty. 

Small cafeteria at the Arsvagen ferry terminal

Enjoying the seaview while waiting for the next ferry

How they match the colour of the sky

At 11am, we board the ferry that would bring us to the final road to Stavanger.  The ferry came on time as scheduled and everyone was back in their vehicles starting up their engines.

Cars and vans all waiting for the ferry

There were tall and long bridges along way connecting islands together. In an hour driving time, we reached the city of Stavanger. 

On the road in the city of Stavanger

As we were rushing for time, we headed straight to the ferry terminal for the ferry ride from Stavanger to Tau. We made it just in time as the last car to board the ferry. The cost was a total of 172 NOK for this ride. We were wondering who is collecting payment as we have experienced from some ferry crossing that they collect before you board the ferry, some after you park your car. In this case, it was done by a staff walking within the passenger lounge collecting payment. Of course there was a ticketing counter where we just walked up and paid for the ride. At 1:30pm, we landed at Tau and we made a quick visit to the supermarket to stock up on some snacks and food for dinner.

Ferry leaving the city of Stavanger for Tau

Everyone out to enjoy the sun after days of bad weather

Approaching Tau, our car parked in lower deck

 

From Tau we took the route 15 in the direction of Jopeland and following the signboard for Preikestolen, we finally reached the car park at the Preikestolen campsite around 2pm. As it was warm and sunny, we took a small backpack with water and snacks and started the climb up. The entire car park was almost full of cars and people were walking around like some big family day outing. The number of people climbing was astonishing high. 

At the trail head for the climb

So many cars at the carpark below

At the trailhead, the first signboard of the red T pointing to the Preikstolen greeted us. We started climbing for 15mins and reached a viewpoint. There were so many people walking in 2 directions that after the viewpoint area, we followed the wrong group of people and ended up at the car park again. We did ask a passing climber if that was the right way and he just said it was correct and followed him along. Miscommunication over here. Maybe he don't under English or he thought that we were descending instead of ascending. In the end we wasted 30mins of walking time.  We started climbing the same route again to the 1st viewpoint and took the other direction. 

Looks okay from the diagram, but difficult to hike

Very warm day. Off with the jackets

Now the path was right and more and more red T signs painted the way and more and more people were descending. I was really surprised by the crowd making the way up and down. Some brought children as young as 5 years old and dogs for the climb. There was one incident when the owner stepped on the tail of his dog and it made a loud shrieking sound. Poor dog. The path was very rocky and there was no fixed way to walk on them. Everyone climbing may pick a different rock to step on. Focus during the hike was to pick the right and stable rock to step on. It could be that previous day was raining and some of the rocks were slippery. 

Heli evacuation

After the view point, an ambulance helicopter was circling around the area and indeed an accident had happened. An elderly climber was slipped and fell on the rock path. Luckily from the looks his injury was not that serious but unable to make his way down. As the rescuer hooked the injured climber and airlifted him up, he waved to his fellow climbing companions. After seeing that, we went on our way with more caution. In 20mins, we reached a flat clearing with a path with a wooden platform. This look like a wetland area with signs of summer as small flowers and grass were growing along the path.

At the open wetland area

Signboards & signboards (or just follow the crowd)

The path continued with more rocks and it was quite steep at some parts. But seeing people decorated the path, it gave the wrong impression that this is a walk in the park. Many streams run across the path and many areas are actually mini waterfalls and we were just walking on the rock steps with water gushing down. As we were getting closer to the destination, we need to do some careful placement of our feet to cross some narrow areas. I would say those with fear of heights may have problem crossing some of the paths. 

Human traffic jam. This is really the most visited spot in Norway

Lotsa rocks to climb

Doesn't look scary from this pic, but it does.

We reached the wooden bridge near the top after 1.5hrs since we started. It seemed short in timing but the climb gave the impression that we had climb longer. 

"Almost there", I always say

Lysefjorden down below

Finally after another 30mins, we reach the rock platform. The cliff was amazing from the sides, a sheer drop of 600m into the fjord below. It gets a bit scary walking close to the edge and taking a photograph of yourself standing close to the edge takes some courage. 

The rock platform, the Preikestolen

Yes, wave at me please.

Sitting on the edge with the world down below

Next please ..

The area was big enough for many climbers to enjoy the view of the Lysefjord below and have their picnic. From some of the online pictures, this rock platform can be packed with climbers on a peak season. Since we arrived at the 5pm, there were actually lesser people and doing some of the scary photograph feats were attracting lesser attention. To make the climb complete, we decided to take the courage do a photo shot of sitting on the ledge. With such a height and open view and the idea of nothing below except the waters, it gets a bit scary for me. So i just sat down on the rock and edge myself closer until i actually dangle my feet over the ledge. It is the movement that is scary, once we sat still there, it was actually less frightening. But the thought of sudden strong winds making you lose balance is always there. Luckily the weather was optimal and little chance of sudden wind shear,

The other side of the rock platform

On the right side of the rock

On the way down just a few meters from the platform, there is a hill trail marked with the red T that leads to the cliff above the Preikestolen platform, it took me around 5mins to get to the top. From here, you can see the entire square platform. 

Made a 10mins climb to the hilltop for a top view of Preikestolen

A pile of rock on the hilltop overlooking the Preikestolen

 

After enjoying the great weather and scenery, we started our slow descend down the rocky path. The descend was more enjoyable as it was less strenuous and the crowd was minimal. Only to meet some climbers still making their way up in the evening.

Everyone has gone home

Walking back to the carpark

Starting our descend at 6pm, we reached the car park at 7:40pm. While leaving the car park area, we had to pay a parking fee of 80 NOK. Seems like the parking fee has become an entrance fee for drivers. In this season, there are actually buses from Tau to Preikestolen car park. Taking a bus for those without transport is a good option for those staying overnight at Tau. 

Lysefjord Hytter (reception is closed)

From here it was another 20mins drive to our cabin accommodation at the Lysefjord Hytter campsite. This is a popular accommodation for people climbing Preikestolen as it is near the ferry to cross from Oanes to Lauvvik. We cooked a simple dinner and off to the beds. 

Our car parked outside our cabin for the night at Lysefjord

Let's move on to Part 7

Norway in Spring 2011 (Part 5)

1 Jun 2011, A day of Glacier walk on the Bodalsbreen

Good morning !!! The weather was great today at Sande Camping in Loen. The sun was shining bright and the lake view outside our cabin was stunning. I saw the motor boat by the lake and recalled the fun we had while boating at Geiranger. But today was scheduled for glacier walk, so we did not have any time to do boating on the lake. 

Superb weather outside our cabin

Same lake view, different lighting

Breakfast was Nissin cup noodles we brought from home. It was once again nice to savour the flavours of home food, even it is not healthy and not considered a delicacy. We packed some light snacks like biscuits and hotdogs and readied ourselves for the climb. The meeting time was 10am, so we had time to laze around in the cabin until 9:20am before loading the bags once again into the car. 

A nice spot beside our campsite. Near the climbers' hut

 

Today was the 1^st day they started the summer climbing. Since it was still early in the season, I presumed we were the only people. Around 9:45am, a van with 4 Germans came and sign up for the walk. In the end , it was a total of 7 of us include the guide. We had a short briefing and the standard check on our boots to make sure they can fit the crampons. Once ready, we drove in our own car on the only road outside the campsite and moved deeper into the valley. We took one of the German climbers as their van was too big to maneuver the narrow mountain road. And indeed the road was narrowed and when we reached the end of the asphalt road, we turned into a closed gate dirt path. I guessed the guide has the permission to enter into what looked like a private farming land. This dirt path was really narrow and steep and we had to drive real slowly around 20km/h. After about 20mins of drive along the rocky dirt road, we reached a small open car park space. This was the trailhead to the Bodalsbreen. We were the only humans at the car park. After locking our cars, we started the walk. This part of the walk was very enjoyable.

Entering the Bodalsbreen trail

A good day to do some outdoor hiking

The warm sun and clear skies were best for a good day’s walk. After 20mins, we reached the huts where the guide stored his equipment. While we relaxed ourselves enjoying the mountain and the sheep, the guide went to prepare the equipment like harness and crampons and ice-axe for us. It was 11am and with a short briefing, we strapped on the harness and with the ice-axe in one hand, we started the walk towards the glacier. 

Sheeps near the cottage where we got our equipment for the climb

This way to the glacier

The trail to the Bodalsbreen

Crossing the new wooden bridge onto trail to Bodalsbreen

We crossed a newly constructed bridge over a rapid river and followed the hiking trail in the direction of the glacier. After walking for 1.5 hrs., we reached the point where we need to strap on our crampons to walk on the glacier. As this was our 3^rd glacier walk, we just went on to strap the crampons ourselves. At 12:45pm, we made the 1^st step on the glacier. But the weather had already turned bad at this point. It was actually drizzling and the wind was starting to pick up. 

Straping on the crampons (easy)

All ready to go

The ice that we stepped on was different from that we experienced in New Zealand. It was crushed ice instead of smooth ice. The reason given by the guide was that the ice at the surface was melting faster than those below, leading to the creation of crushed ice. And for the glacier, it only gets blue if those ice is heavily compressed, without the agent of oxygen. Once the ice gets exposed to air, it loses it blue color nature. A new lesson learned for the day. 

Climbing up the glacier slopes

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On the ice

At our rest and lunch point

Deep blue ice

Due to the fact that weather was not improving and the new Germans behind us were getting tired, we had no choice but to turn back. Well we got 1.5 hrs on the ice instead of the advertised 3 hrs. Guess there wasn’t much to see out of that weather. With ropes running through us, we started the quick descend. I think it took us less than 30mins to reach the rocks area where we put on our crampons. 

Descending from the glacier

After removing the crampons, we were on the rocky path again taking the trail back. It was a slow walk back as we had lots of time with us. We reached the equipment cabin at 3:30pm, rested a while till 4pm before going back to pick up our cars. From the car park , it was a 40mins drive back to Sande camp site. We bid farewell to the Germans, paid the guide and started our 2.5hrs drive to our next accommodation for the night. The Kjornes camp site at Sogndal. The weather remain cloudy and drizzle for the entire drive to Sogndal. We made a quick stop to see one of the Jostedal glacier tongues at the Jostedalsbreen National Park along highway E39. 

At the carpark to see Jostedalbreen

 

One of the tongues of the Jostedalsbreen

A stop was made at the Glacier Centre Musuem which was closed as it was already 6pm. At 7:30pm, we reached the touristy town of Sogndals and check-in our cabin at Kjornes camping. We had an apartment just above the reception. We had some problems finding the pots and pans for cooking at first and only managed to cook dinner at 10pm as the reception was closed and only opened at 8:30pm. When it opened, a long queue of people was waiting to pay for their rentals and parking. We headed for the beds close to midnight.

Kjornes Camping

2 Jun 2011, City of Bergen on a rainy day

Cloudy morning Kjornes campsite near Sogndal

It was another cloudy and raining morning. Seemed to me this is considered to be the bad weather season. The hours of blue skies and warm sun are limited. One day bright and sunny, the next day dark and gloomy. Maybe this is the bad side of traveling outside the peak season and it was said that spring period is the best season to visit. After packing up our bags, we drove away from our Kjornes camp site and onto route 5 to make the only ferry crossing for the day. 

On the ferry crossing to Fodnes

It was the Mannheller-Fodnes ferry crossing.  As it was gloomy and cloudy, not much mood for taking pictures and we initially just planned to drive all the way to Bergen. But it was that moody after all. After landing on Fodnes, we continued on highway 5 through a tunnel and exiting to the small village of Lærdalsøyri. An unique sand bank was in the middle of the lake, running from a very narrow path from the lakeside to the tip.It was windy and the sun was temporarily lightening up the surroundings. We took turns to run to the sand bar to take a few photos of ourselves.

At the tip of the sand bar

A wider view of the sand bar

After leaving the small village of Laerdalsoya, we followed highway 5 and changed to E16 at the roundabout heading Bergen. This is the longest tunnel cutting through the steep mountains of the fjordlands, covering a total of 25km. This is called the Lærdalstunnelen in Sogn og Fjordane, Norway is the longest road tunnel in the world. There are 3caverns in the tunnels which they have put in colourful cool lighthing to make the caverns look sci-fci and beautiful. Guess with this the drivers will not fall asleep seeing the same hypnotizing ceiling lights for 25km.

Inside one of the caverns of the Laerdalstunnelen

In another cavern after about 8km in between

After exiting the 25km tunnel, we reached the village of Aurlandsvegen. There was a petrol station with a snack bar just beside the roundabout. We followed the highway E16 in the direction of Bergen. In less than 15mins of driving, we accidentally reached the small village of the famous Flam railway. This is a famous scandanavian tourists attractions. There is a big car park for coaches and cars with a lot of restaurants nearby. There are also some hotels (Fretheim Hotel) for those who want to take the Flam railway from here and rest for the night. The Flamsbana (Flam railway) travels from here to the mountain station of Myrdal, which is part of the Bergen Railway. Since we were driving all the way to Bergen and not enough time, we gave it a miss. The thought of just taking the train from Flam to Myrdal and back was tempting though.

At the Flam Railway Station near Aurlandsfjord

Train going to depart without us of course

There is an interesting restaurant converted from that of an old train. The wheels are still there and the side platform leads into the restaurant entrance. Not sure if there was any decent meal as the time was still early (even though it was already 11am) and they were still serving cold dishes and sandwich meant for breakfast. We gave the train restaurant a miss and continued on our journey to Bergen. It was a drive along the countryside with no small towns in between. Around 1pm, we came upon a decent size town by the name of Vossvangen, but since it was a public holiday, most of the shops and supermarkets were closed. But down on the garden park by the lake, there was a simple restaurant opened and serving hot food. Time to for a good lunch we thought and we just parked around the big car park just in front of the restaurant.

Lunch at casual restaurant by the lake

After a hearty lunch meal (even though it is all fried, sinful yes), we were on highway E16 again and this time we drove non-stop all the way to the city of Bergen. Along the way, there were lush green farmlands with sheep grazing on the grasses.

Black and white sheep grazing

Around 4pm, we reached the city of Bergen and checked into our hotel, the Comfort Hotel in Bergen. It was still raining and the clouds were mush lower. We could not even see the nearby mountains and so we decided not to take the cable car up to the viewpoint. Instead we immediately walked over to the famous Bryggen, the hansectic wharf. This is an UNESCO protected site of the wooden merchant quarters dated back in the Hansectic period (13 ~ 17 century)

The Bryggen at Bergen

Shops along the Bryggen

The UNESCO sign at the back lane of the Bryggen

We visited almost each and every shop facing the main road. This is the only place that was still busy with tourists on a public holiday. We went into one of the souvenir shops to look for magnets. Bought a fair number of them.

Porcelain replica of the Bryggen

We left the shops for the fish market before they close for the day. Many tourists were having a meal at the makeshift tents besides the fish stalls.  Some of them the business was good.

Bryggen Fish Market

For dinner, we bought some grilled fish from the nearby shop. The shop looks more like a restaurant than just a fish shop. They sell raw seafood as well cook them for you if you want to dine in or take away.

Choose your own food to be cooked.

We bought 2 grilled fish, one salmon and the other some white fish which i forgot the name. We headed back straight to our hotel to have a TV meal and ended our day after that.

Let's move on to Part 6