Climbing the Kjerag (Norway)

4 Jun 2011, A Day to Climb the Kjerag (Part 7, Norway in Spring 2011)

It was a cloudy day at Oanes near the start of Lysefjord. The clouds were very low covering the hills across the fjord. It was drizzling outside and my mood went with the grey skies as today we had planned to climb the Kjerag to see the Kjeragbolten. After loading our luggage into the car and off to return the keys, my wife had a last visit to see the rabbits by the reception office. We left the office at 10am to take the ferry from Oanes to Lauvik. There are 2 ways to get to the Kjerag. One way is by ferry from Forsand or Lauvik but the ferry only has limited schedules, and when comparing again the cost, I would say driving on the road is a cheaper alternative. So i decided to drive all way from Lauvvik all the way to Kjerag. The route from Lauvvik make a loop over the southern mountains, going in the direction of Sandnes on highway 5, then changes to 508 and switch to 45 in the direction of Oltedal. From here continue on 45 for a very long drive until a signboard saying "Lysebotn". Take the turn left and start the winding mountain road up 900m above sea level to the Kjerag car park.

Leaving the sea of rain clouds behind us on the mountain road.

It was raining all the way until we drove through a high mountain pass and it was sunny all the way from there onwards. It seemed that the rain clouds were blocked by the high mountain behind us. After a long drive down the route 45, we reached the junction which turns into Lysebotn. This is a steep mountain road up the mountains. On a sunny day, we were able to see snow along the road and lakes still partially frozen or you would say melting, The combination of blue skies and snow covered the mountain landscape in patches was really a beautiful experience for us.

Driving up the mountain road to Lysebotn

A partial frozen lake melting in late spring

Waterfall of melting snow

After a 2.5hrs drive and plus some stopover to take pictures, we arrived at the car park of the trail head to climb the Kjerag.

The Kjerag signboard at the carpark

Knowing that we needed the energy for the climb, we had a lunch at the cafeteria next to the car park. The name of the restaurant is called the Eagles. Not much selection of food on the menu but good enough for a hearty and warm meal to top up the calories.

Eagle's Nest, that's the name of the restaurant

Many travellers drive up here to see the Lysefjord below, and this place is only a 7.5km drive to the only village below where the ferry docks, Lysebotn. There is a campsite offering accommodations but getting there may not be that easy as there are only limited ferry schedule from Forsand or Lauvvik. We had to pay 80 NOK to park our cars at the car park. The automated machine only accepts coin, but the cashier at the cafeteria allows you to pay for the parking using credit card. So they just print a receipt with a big "P" written on it for you to display inside your car.

After our meal, we finally started the climb at 2:30pm. From the signboard at the trail head, it says 2.5hrs to and another 2.5 hrs. back, totally 5 hrs. return. The 1st step on the trail lead to a steep big rock and chains are provided at the sides to help climbers up. It was a tough climb even from the start, giving us the idea that it might get tougher we as progressed.

A very steep and slippery rock path to climb

A gentle part of the path for a photoshot

The start point of the climb was already at 640m, and we had to climb to 825m to over the first peak. The weather was great during the climb and the sun was actually strong making it possible to climb with just a simple dry-fit top. It was steep rocks and more steep rocks. The only thought in my mind was that could this be the nature of the climb all the way to the top?

At the first flat viewpoint, unobstructed view

The view during the climb was stunning, we were actually seeing all the mountains above the Lysefjord and we were actually higher that the opposite mountains. Once we reached the 1st peak, we were greeted with a demoralizing downhill. There were much snow to be seen in the nearby mountains, and the parts of the mountains lakes were still melting and the streams were gushing with clean and clear water. This is actually the valley called the Little Stordalen. The land considered to be fertile and we could see signs of summer as the fresh grasses were spouting everything.

Going down into the valley of Little Stordalen

Going down, cross the wooden bridge and up the valley

 
The descend into the valley was steep and steel chains again were provided at places to assist climbers. Many climbers actually took to their own paths as they were many ways to get from one T-marker to another. Walking on the vegetation gave more grip than the slippery rocks. So many climbers were climbing and jumping around like mountain goats but they were really quick. Both the Kjerag and the Preikestolen are popular climbing destinations, the latter being more popular and crowded.

Bridge or just a plank? Planking anyone?

After making across the stream over a wooden bridge, we started to make the steep climb again, this time to a height of 890m, More steel chains were spotted along the T-marked rock path. Around 1.5hrs after we started, we reached the 2nd peak looking down the valley we had just scale up. Again, from here we went downhill again to the valley of Stordalen, and this time we had to walk across a stream.

Making the way down to the next valley

The rocks were there to help us walk across as the water from the mountain lake just washes over the flat rocks. What’s goes down must go up again for climbers to reach the top.

Water following down the melting ice creating a river

Stepping stones to cross the stream

At 4pm, we reached the Kjerag at the height of 1020m, and from here, it was like climbing Mount Kinabalu. No more steep climb, but instead, a vast open rock platform for all climbers to freely roam about. We just need to follow the T-markers direction and everyone almost chose their own path. It was a long walk from this slightly inclined bedrock.

Widen open area of rocks to walk on

We were distracted by this signage that we lost where the crowd went.

From here, we could see the crowds of climbers walking in both directions. Could not really see the end point from here as this was our 1st climb to the Kjerag, so we just kept walking and hoping that the destination will not be far away. Finally we reached a rock pile with a direction signage. We had taken a few shots here while enjoying the scenery surrounding us. When we were ready to move, we could tell which way we should be heading. The signage above us just point in a direction but we could not spot the T-markers. Since it was almost evening time, the bulk of climbers had actually descended with a small handful of climbers still making their way up (go left). After scouting around, we just follow a group heading in a what looked like a non-returning group. After 10mins, we made a couple returning from the Kjerag rock and they gave us the final direction.

Follow the snow beaten trail and walk to the Kjeragbolten

We walked for another 10mins, walking on snow and suddenly we saw the famous rock that is stuck in the crevice, the Kjeragbolten. I can say that the final path was like a hidden route.

The Kjeragbolten

Should I or Should I not ?

Here we were at the Kjeragbolten. Some climbers were already walking onto the rock while their friends took their memorable photographs.

Steep drop all the way to the fjord below

What the front of the Kjeragbolten look like

When we took our focus away from the rock, the cliff area where many climbers rest themselves after reaching here, offers a stunning view of the fjord below. The vertical drop from the side cliffs gave it a what i called  "Lord of the rings" look. Grey walls stretching from the sides all the way to the fjord below, a full 1000m vertical drop into the waters. Walking close to the ledge can be a daring feat for some. Looking down at the fjord below from the edge of the platform sent me the chills. Some climbers sat at the open area to enjoy the view and the climbers making daring feat on walking onto the Kjeragbolten. There were a group of girls taking turns to walk onto the rock. Some were very daring while some of them after making it there and back, cried over what they had done. Some just stood on one leg like a ballerina. I wondered has anyone fallen off the rock but till now luckily no one has fallen off the rock while standing on it.

The area to stand wasn't that big and one has to actually hop onto the rock over a 1 meter distance. before the climb, I had some reservations about doing this silly stunt. Imagining all the possible scenarios of actually slipping and falling over the rock, or my legs just wouldn't listen after making my way onto the rock.  Both of us stood there and watched as climbers hopped on and off the rock. Some made it so simple while some tried halfway and retreated.

On the narrow path to the ROCK.

Standing on the Kjeragbolten

I couldn't make up my mind, and as we were about to leave the place, I took the courage and climbed onto the rock. I did not actually hop across, but crawled onto the rock and after establishing my balance, I stood up on the rock. My wife took some shots from a distant and after she gave me the okay sign, I cautiously turned my body and jumped back to the narrow path i had just crossed. Holding on to the rock wall on the safe end was such a relief.

On the way down, skies has turned deep blue

It was already 5:30pm and from the rock, we started our way back to the car park. The return journey took us 2.5hrs as what was stated on the signboard. It was less crowded now and we actually had to hunt for the T-markers instead of just following the crowd. We met a couple while at the rock area whom we met the previous day at the Preikestolen. We exchanged a few hellos and acknowledgement that we saw each other the day before.

A signboard we did not notice on the way up

 After crossing the same valley and over the same mountain peaks, we were back at the car park at 8pm.

Back at the car park

The sun was still shining, but more of an evening sun. The car park was left with say 10 cars instead of the almost full house when we arrived at  2pm. We had made our night accommodation at Rauland and that took us 3hrs to drive from here, and with some wrong turn taken, we reached the hotel at 12:15am. Didn't expect the distance to be that far but we did cover 240km over the 4 hrs. to reach the hotel.

Midnight sun (even though not midnight yet, 9pm)

We made a phone call before we left the Kjerag trailhead car park so that the hotel would wait for us. Indeed they did wait for us and we really appreciate their patience. Normally they would just close their counter at 6pm. The hotel is called Austbo Hotel in Rauland. And because of the good service and warmth cozy decor, i wrote a review in tripadvisor commenting on their good points. Bed time for the day came around 2am in the next morning and we were dead tired, plus skipping dinner as we had to drive over the long distance at that late hours where every shop had closed.


Let's move on to Part 8