Mount Fuji (Japan) Part 1

Mount Fuji, Japan’s highest mountain stands at a height of 3776m, and one of the iconic figures of modern Japan. Official climbing season is from July to end August every year for climbers from all over the world. Last month, I made Mount Fuji as one of my travel plans for my Japan holiday. The photo on the left was taken on in Nov 2003 when we were on our honeymoon back then.





We (me and my wife) took a flight from our country Singapore to Narita Airport, a day just after the typhoon Manyi hit Japan. We landed at Narita with moderate rains and dark rain cloud skies. Took an airport bus (aka airport limousine) to reach Shinjuku after 2 hours on the expressway. We managed to find the Keio Bus Terminal which has bus service to the Subaru Line 5th station, but the service was cancelled for that day possibly due to the bad weather. Fortunately, we were told that the bus service would resume the next day; and it did.


The next morning, 16th July, at around 10:15am, an earthquake of about 6.5 hit Japan. We experienced about 10sec of shaking at our hotel room. Everything was safe and usual for the people in Tokyo. We took the 5pm bus leaving Shinjuku and arrived at the Kawaguchiko 5th station after 2.5 hours on the road. The journey from Tokyo was raining and heavy mist on the road up Mt Fuji. But at the 5th station, everything changed. We managed to catch the stunning golden red sunset.








The 5th station is at an altitude of 2305m. After buying the traditional Mt Fuji hiking pole, we took some time to put on our warm clothing and water-proofing jackets. After a light meal, we were off into the darkness with our headlamps and hiking pole. The initial trek was gentle and easy. Our headlamps illuminated the way but when the fog came in, it was very difficult to see what a few meters away was. The thick fog was actually reflecting the light source from our headlamps and we were literally seeing a wall of brightly lit fog.











Our 1st stop was the 6th station Seikansou Hut (photo below). Many trekkers tend to miss this station as it was out of the way. Most trekkers proceed directly from the 5th station to the Mt Fuji Safety and Guidance Centre (2390m); and subsequently proceed to the 7th station. At the 6th station, we got our wooden hiking pole hot-stamp for a price of 200 yen. One unique custom of climbing Mt Fuji is that you can bring along the wooden hiking pole purchase from the 5th station and get it hot-stamped at the individual mount lodge scattered from the 6th to the 9th station.








From the 6th station, it was a trek through the forest towards the Safety Guidance Centre. Along the way, we saw some dilapidated and abandoned houses partially covered by vegetation. They looked like abandoned mountain lodges with some having just the roof only. The weather was still kind to us at that moment and we could actually see the trail of lights from the mountain lodges that decorated the ascending trail. After the Safety Guidance Centre, it was a series of zigzags up the loose gravels to the 1st 7th Station, the Hana-goya Hut (2700m). There are many mountain huts that are built along the ascending trail with more than one hut at the same 7th station altitude. We got our second hot-stamp on the wooden stick. There were quite a number of people climbing at this time of the night. There were some French, New Zealander, American and local climbers taking a break at this first 7th station stop.



The trail after Hana-goya Hut starts to get rocky and steep and altitude to overcome to the first 8th station hut is about 300m. As we climbed, the weather started to turn bad. The clouds were coming in fast and at times we were again enshrouded in thick mist. Winds were starting to pick up as well with rain droplets getting larger. The thick mist provided limited visibility and at times we had to stop to shine our headlamps here and there to get the correct path. Luckily the entire ascending path has colored ropes to guide climbers on the path to take. But as the cold winds started to howl viciously, we took limited shelter from the winds at the last 7th station next mountain hut. The hut was closed and as it was already around midnight. We did not know if the owner would if we just go in and rest without permission since he was already asleep. In the end, we just sit on the ground outside the hut, hoping to get as much shelter we can have from the strong winds. I can say it was quite miserable at that time, but luckily we were prepared in terms of water-proofing on our clothing and boots. After about half an hour, the weather did not seem to improve and we decided to push forward to the 8th station.



The subsequent climb was steep and rocky, plus the rain that is coming down, the rocks were more slippery than ever. The mist was once again thick and made the climb slow. Surprisingly, there were still climbers making their ascent at this time of the night (2am). Suspect they are the climbers that just woke up from their sleep at the mountain huts below and making their way to the summit to see the sunrise. But I doubt there is much sunrise to see in such weather. Finally we reached the first 8th Station, the Taishikan Hut (3020m). The rain was getting heavier and we were starting to feel the need for sleep. Well it had been 20 hours since we woke up from our comforting beds of our Shinjuku hotel. Since the hut was still closed, we pushed on to the next hut.















We saw bright lights coming from the Horaikan hut (3150m) and were happy enough to see the caretaker manning the hut. He welcomed us in for rest and we still have to adhere to the strict rule of all mountain huts. Pay for something like a drink or some food so that you can rest inside the warm hut. We weren’t particular about the inflated cost of hot cocoas, and more interested in escaping from the cold winds outside. The caretaker has a command of simple English and we managed to start a chat. We talked about each other like where we were from, where he comes from and how long he has been working at the hut. His name was Maru san. He was kind enough to show us maps on the descend route should we forsake the summit as the weather was still bad. We rested for an hour at the hut as the day breaks. The rain clouds started to light up and the rain started to turn into a drizzle.





The photo on the left taken just outside the hut. You can see that the heavy rain clouds below. With the rain subsided and much more visibility, we continued our climb.













On the left is a shot taken on the zigzag slopes overlooking the hut that we rested. Noticed the rocks that were placed on the roof to keep it from flying off under strong winds.









We were back to the zigzag rock path ascending. Some of the snow on the slopes of Mt Fuji was still in a state of melting in this summer season. There are signs of rock fall every now and then on the path. Hence climbers have to be aware of any rock movement sounds and be alert. It actually not that serious, maybe that only happens when there is an earthquake or big storm.




Could not remember how long it takes, as we took short breaks along the way. We bypassed the Hakuun-so Hut and bought cup noodles at the Gansomuro Hut. Needed the break from the sleepless night. At 8:30am, we proceeded on with the climb towards the summit. Minus the strong winds, the weather was the same. Light rains, thick clouds climbing up the slope of Mt Fuji. Occasionally, we get a breeze of cloud blowing us from behind and the front.




Less than an hour of climb, we reached the original 8th station. The picture on the left shows the Fuji-san Hotel. Well, it is the same mountain hut as the others. The staff was actually asking us if we wanted to have a hot-stamping on our wooden pole. Same as the others, every stamp is 200 yen. You can see the variety of drinks for sale. One unique characteristics of this Fuji-san hotel is that it accepts VISA and MASTER credit cards. The rest only accept cash.





The below pictures show the mist from the clouds as we made our climb.









End of Part 1.