Climbing Mount Kinabalu (4095m), Sabah

Climbing Mt Kinabalu ( Aug 2009)

Mt Kinabalu (shot taken from the park HQ)

Mount Kinabalu (4095m), the highest mountain in South East Asia, is located in Kinabalu National Park in the eastern Malaysian state of Sabah. Mt Kinabalu is one of the UNESCO World Heritage site. Trekking up Mt Kinabalu is a popular activity among tourists as well as locals. Trekkers from around the world and around the region swamped the mountain in busloads. Getting a permit to climb Mt Kinabalu has to be carefully planned for and pre-booked in advance to avoid unavailability of accommodations near the Laban Rata lodges. It is a requirement to secure accommodations up in the mountains before a climbing permit can be issued.

7th Aug 2009

This afternoon, we took a Malaysian Airline flight from Singapore to Kota Kinabalu via Kuching. It was a short transit where we just hang around in Kuching Airport awaiting. We reached Kota Kinabalu around 6pm and checked in at the Boutec Hotel at Warisan Square. Warisan Square is the downtown area just next to the sea with many shops that we can find in Singapore shopping malls.

Seafood Market at night

After dinner at Fish & Co, we crossed the road and walked about the Filipino Seafood Market (above). There were crowds of people savoring the BBQ seafood, all laid out on long benches tempting tourists like us. I have doubts on the hygiene level of the food and advised our group not to try the food before the climb. Heard from locals that some of the fruits at the market were injected with preservatives and those fishes were scoped from the sea after using the dynamite fishing technique.

8th Aug 2009.

At 6:15am, the boss (Alan) of the climbing company that we engaged came to our hotel to pick us up using his personal car. The van that was supposed to come for us broke down. That was good news as we were able to ride on in his Toyota MPV. We droved through the morning quiet streets of KK and left the city towards the north-east into the Kinabalu National Park (1564m). The drive took about 2 hours to reach the park. While we were getting our muscles stretch and some last minute packing, Alan went to do the permit processing and collected the pre-packed food provided as part if the climb. These logistics are part of the Sanctuary Lodge climb package which will include all the meals from the start till the end of the climb.This was the morning view of the summit and the altitude that we needed to conquer (below).

Me, all warm up for the climb

At 9am, we bid farewell to Alan and hopped onto a shuttle van together with our assigned guide, to bring us to the entrance and trailhead of the climb. A short drive of 15mins along a steep winding road to reach Timpohon Gate (1866m). After displaying our lanyard permits to the guard at the gate, we started our grueling climb to the summit of Mt Kinabalu.

The picture (above) shows a big of students from UK on some exchange programme. Such shelters are scattered along the trail all the away to our rest house at Laban Rata. Every shelter comes with a flushable toilet with water and even toilet paper for some. This is the most commercial trekking trail one can find in Asia.

The trail we took was the Timpohon trail. It was steps after steps and even more steps. After passing the RTM transmission station, at 1:30pm, we broke through the tree-line and were greeted by strong cool winds and great views (below).

We can actually see the some of the peaks of Mt Kinabalu. At this point, some of us were starting to feel tired and we took the time to rest out feet and breathing while enjoying the scenery at the Willoso Shelter (3052m). From here, it was steps after steps again.

We passed through arches of little tree branches that closed around the trail (as seen in the picture above).

Arrived at the Laban Rata Lodge

At 3:45pm, we reached the Laban Rata Lodge (3273m). This lodge has all the facilities of a simple hotel. Food, beds, toilets and even showers which sometimes has warm water running. But from previous climbing experiences, it would be better to avoid any bathing to prevent getting a cold. Anyway it is only for one night.

We met some Singaporeans outside the Laban Rata who happily helped us to take some pictures of our group. This climbing destination is very popular with Singaporean and many of them were their first high altitude mountain climb.

Laban Rata Lodge at 3273m

Check-in was simple as the counter staff has all our information. Just need to pay a RM$10 deposit for the keys and off we went to our rooms. I was surprised to see soft mattress and clean bed sheets. It was an out-of-this world comparison to the mountain lodges I stayed in Taiwan.

A 4-bedded Room

Dinner was served at 5pm, and it was really crowded with people lining up for food. Tables were limited and many climbers did not have tables to take their dinner. Problem is many of the climbers came in groups and not every one of them came down for dinner at the same time. In the end, many just hogged on to the tables and happily chit-chatting away. This is not Starbucks or Coffee bean, please have your dinner and let others have the tables. Sadly to say the group I encountered was a Singaporean group of aunties and uncles. We queued about 30mins before we got our food. It was buffet style and you can just take as much as you can eat. All thanks to the daily Sutera staff that carry all the food and drinks all the way from the Park HQ to the lodge. After a fulfilling meal, we headed for our beds and turned in for the night.

9th Aug 2009,

Happy National Day , Singapore!. Breakfast (they called it supper) was only available at 2am. But after seeing the queues and crowds, we woke up at 1am and were down at the cafeteria around 1:30am to wait for our food. Call us “kia-su” (afraid to lose), but we didn’t want to queue for breakfast which will delay our ascend to the summit. Well, we weren’t the first. There was already 2 westerner girls forming a queue and we just queue behind them. With a queue formed, as more climbers arrived at the cafeteria, they joined behind the queue. True enough, after our meal, we were almost the first few group to start the ascend. At 2am, we left the lodge and began the climb of steps again in darkness towards the summit. It wasn’t a cold night. The weather was best with no wind and temperature was comfortably right with our climbing gear. With our headlamps, we shone the way up the rocky path into the darkness. This was a 800m ascent to the summit, with the last checkpoint at the Sayat-Sayat hut (3668m). Another prerequisite to gain access to the summit path is that you need to reach the last checkpoint by some timing. There was a staff at the last checkpoint gate to register our ascend to make sure we come down after the ascend. This is the way the national park make sure climbers are safe during the climb. The staff at the gate a all the printed A4 forms of our names and climbing permit number. Anyone who does not have their permit will not be allowed to proceed further. At 4:50am, we reached the 8km mark (3929m) of the summit trail(below). It was a grueling climb from the checkpoint gate.

At the Km 8 mark

There were not more steps but we were walking on a huge inclined rock path and with the thin air up there, it was a continuous breathless and panting experience that lasted all the way to the summit.

Looking from the Low's Peak to the opposite peak

Sunrise at the Low's Peak

At 5:40am, we reached the summit which is also known as Low’s Peak (4095m). The sky was starting to light up and everyone was awaiting the arrival if the morning sunrise. The summit is actually a pyramid of rocks piled up together to form the highest point. There is little standing space on the jagged and uneven rocks. It was a massive traffic jam at the top, with some unwilling or unable to come down, and many trying to get to the Low’s peak signboard for photos. A little consideration and courtesy here would ease the flow and everyone will have the chance to capture their moments at the summit signboard. However this is not the case. We got our shots with the summit signboard and hurriedly climbed down from there to find some comfortable flat rock to wait the sunrise.

At the summit

Overcrowding is always a norm

(Above) A crowded summit peak with people waiting to get a chance to photograph with the Low's Peak signboard.

A beautiful Sunrise

Looking down from the summit.

The view at around the summit is amazing. It is a totally barren land with no plants, but some rats running in between the rocks. These rates are side effects of climbers leaving food at the summit. With the landscape brightening up, it is a huge piece of inclined bedrock. Even thought there is a rope line indicating the path, you can walk anywhere you want. The area is some huge and wide, the size of many football fields.

Making the way down

The route up and down

Around 6:20am, we started our descend back to Laban Rata. It is only during the descend can we admired the beauty and the magnificence of the individual peaks around Mt Kinabalu. There is the Ugly Sister Peak (4032m), the Donkey Ears Peak (4054m), the King Edward Peak, the Alexandra’s Peak (4003m), the St Johns Peak (4093m). The descend to Laban Rata took us 4hrs and we reached the lodge at 9am. Much time was spent taking photos of the scenery on the way down. And plus the pressure on the knees and toes, we took a more leisure descend to minimized on any injuries.

Photo of the same place at daylight

Wide open space to choose you own path

On the way down from the summit. You could see the vast openness with majectic peaks around us, coupled with the clear blue skies and the clouds below us.

Shows how steep it was to climb in darkness during the ascend.

The above shot was taken close to the Sayat-Sayat hut checkpoint gate. You can see the inclination of the rock surface. Making the climb in the night with a full moonlight was really a memorable moment. I still remember some climbers would just lay flat on the inclined bedrock to enjoy the tranquil view of the full moon.

Back at the lodge, we sank ourselves to the buffet breakfast that was served to climbers returning from the pre-dawn climb. It was a energy power boost after the exhausting summit climb. After our stomachs were filled and thirst quenched, we went back to our rooms to repack and ready for the descend to Timpohon gate. At 10:30am, we made our way down the long flight of steps. It was during the descend that we were realized the amount of steps that we had covered the day before during the climb. It was always a relieve to meet climbers making their way up, knowing that we had made it and no more steps to climb for us. Along the way, we often met climbers who would ask us “How much further?” before the rest house. The descend was also a challenge as well. After descending for a few hours, my legs started to wobbled and jelly-like feelings started to sink in. The pressure on the ball of the feet, the tightness of the leg muscles. It was no longer the panting for breath, it was the continuous landing of our feet on the ground that tired us out.

Back at the park HQ, waiting to get back to town

At about 4:30pm, we returned to the Timpohon gate. The last hour was terrible. My legs were waving white flag to surrender and it was all about enduring to the gate. The sight of the gate was a welcoming sight knowing that it would be food, drinks and rest. We already have decided what to have for dinner at Kota Kinabalu even before reaching the gate. At the Timpohon gate, our taxi driver (arranged by Alan, our trekking company) was waiting. As part of the trek package, we were entitled to lunch at the park HQ (above pic). We made it before the 4pm cut-off time and went straight to the restaurant. The food was a great disappointment, even with our thirsty and hungry condition. We took some orange syrup and some finger food and off we were in the taxi on the journey back to Kota Kinabalu. Dinner was Secret Recipe restaurant at Warisan Square which was located just next to our hotel. The next morning, it was a standard RM$20 taxi ride from our hotel to the airport for the flight home.

2nd Climb to Mt Kinabalu (March 2011)

I was back climbing Mt Kinabalu in March 2011, together with some friends, this time a bigger group. The feelings and experiences of doing a second climb was totally different as I knew what to expect from the toughness of the trail and the mountain route itself. Preparation was even much better this round because of the experience gained. Getting to the summit is important for climbers, but to really enjoy the climb is to enjoy the journey of getting there. The nightmare of stairs is well know when comes to climbing Mt Kinabalu, and they may look discouraging and intimidating. Just take a step and a time and in no time you will be surprise how you have achieved.  I will not be writing up the entire climb again since it was more or less covered previously. So it will be just some snippets on the 2nd climb.

Rain clouds and thick fog on the way up to Park HQ

A night stay at the Park Hostel

This time round, due to some new rules from Park, we had to stay at the park for the night before the day morning climb. Some new regulations. You can stay in the city but you still have to pay for it. Maybe this is a strategy for the management to keep the hostels occupied for commercial gains.

Taking on the steps again to the summit

A pitcher plant by the side of the climbing trail

The climb was done in cloudy weather, with slight drizzle but not the heavy rain type that you could see water running down the mud steps like cascading mini waterfalls. It was cooling and wet, not my kinda climb but just hoping the weather would clear once we clear the sea of clouds below us.

Thick clouds coming in. Lotsa moisture in the air

The Dogged Ear peaks. Nearing the Laban Rata Lodge

This time the climbing journey did not offer any good views as everywhere were clouds and occasionally it rained a while. As long as the climber are equipment good breatherability and waterproof gear, they will be high and dry within. If not the climb can get a bit of discomfort. It was quite monotonuous climbing up in the cloudy weather. As we got closer to Laban Rata, there was a glimpse of better weather as we could finally see blue skies and white clouds. It was about 4pm when we reached the Laban Rata lodge. Being with a bigger group this time, some of our members reached the lodge much earlier while some took a longer time.

Nearing the Laban Rata Lodge

Traffic lamp pole where there are no roads for cars

Leaving the sea of clouds below us

Laban Rata lodge, right in front of the steep rock face

One of the many lodges that dotted the area.

 Once we got our allocated rooms, we sorted out the bedding arrangements and beeline to the crowded cafeteria for dinner. Guess most of those who made it here without troubles will be enjoying their dinner. But for those that has mild discomfort from over exhaustion or mountain sickness would not be in for an appettie for food. My advice to climbers is to take the climb slow, moderate your pace and don't go marathon running up the mountain, unless you are fit enough for that. For me, I would prefer to take it slow to enjoy the entire experience.

Dinner time at the cafeteria

After dinner, some of us chose to roam around the surrounding areas for photos and chit chat sessions outside the building. Some of us just hit the sack and rest for the next day summit scaling. As usual, breakfast ( they call it supper) is served at 2am, so for us knowing about this and the long queue, we waited at the cafeteria at 1:45am for food. The earlier you finish you food, the earlier you can start the climb. There is a rule that all climbers that wish to scale to the summit needs to clear the last gate at the checkpoint (Sayat-Sayat) just before the steep rock floor climb up to the summit, by a certain time. (couldn't remember the time). Anyone unable to make it in time will need to turn back. So my advice is start earlier if you want to stay away from the human traffic or if you think you need a longer time to get to the gate where they will record your permit number before allowing you to proceed.

At the Sayat-Sayat checkpoint at 4am

Looking down at the same rock a year back

Still cloudy with no golden yellow sunrise

Daybreak at the summit. Forever crowded summit point

Today weather did not permit the climbers to experience the golden yellow sunrise that every climber wishes to see at the summit of a morning early climb. The whole purpose to start so early was to catch the sunrise. I would say it always depend of the climbers' luck. The area at the summit signage was a very small area and there are huge rocks everywhere, it is basically climbing all around to get to the top. Reminded me of the spider web that children use to play at playgrounds trying to reach the pinacle of the web-mast. After having some pictures taken it was a slow walk back to Laban Rata for breakfast. Everyone climber who has scaled the summit would be in a good appettie for the welcoming hot food back at the cafeteria.

Started the long descend back to the park HQ

Morning weather clearing up.

Another rock peak along the way

Telephone booth at 3600m. Does it work?

Need some arm power to go up and descend

When we were ascending at night, we could only see very much the rope leading up. Holding onto the ropes we climbed and pushed on, now when comes descending during daylight, everything seemed more challenging. Descending is always considered more dangerous than scaling up.

All of the members managed to return to the lodge before 10am where the cafeteria served the last breakfast before closing down. We rested well enough and started the descend around 11am. At about 4pm, we were back at the park HQ, waiting for our van to send us back to Kota Kinabalu town. And that marked the end of my 2nd Mt Kinabalu climb. We had a celebratory dinner at the local seafood centre just 10mins walk from the hotel.

Cititel Express Hotel in town

At the waterfront near Warisan Square (morning)

At the fish market. The stench was very too powerful.

KK waterfront.

 

At the airport waiting for the check-in

 
In the morning before the flight back home, I did some walking around to see around town. Since this my second trip to the town, roughly just visit back the same shopping mall looking for any good buys.

Advice on climbing Mt Kinabalu.

• Do prepare yourself physically. It was much tougher than expected. After the climb, it was a few days of painful muscle ache at the legs. Can't really walk for 3 days.

• Get a pair of proper trekking boots. I have seen climbers on sandals making the descend and ended up with their socks in a bloody state. When it rains the rocks will get very slippery and accidents can easily happen.

• Gear up with the right clothing for protection against the elements. The weather may be warm at times when the sun is out, but the temperature can drop drastically. I have seen some Singaporean students wearing t-shirt and running shorts making the climb. The weather may be warm at times when the sun is out, but the temperature can drop drastically.

• Don’t bring unnecessary stuff. Lighten your load to carry enough water for the climb only. Water is available at the rest house for refill.

• Any altitude above 3000m will cause altitude sickness. Do take it slow and steady for the climb. Getting acclimatized is important. Don’t do a 100m dash and charge to the top.