New Zealand South Island (Nov 2010, Part 3)

Day 7 (Te Anau, Milford Sound) 

Today our activity was to visit Milford Sound and take a cruise into the sound which me and my wife visited back in the year 1999, about 10 years ago. It was a déjà vu for us but this time we were coming back as husband and wife. The thought of how the place would change was the inviting factor and knowing that not everything would be the same for us. Back then it was a group tour but now was our 3^rd visit to South Island and 2^nd self-drive trip that brought us to Milford Sound. Again it was a trip starting from Te Anau. The of Te Anau has changed esp. in population and size of the town.

There are many cruise companies ( offering cruise package to Milford sound from Queenstown and Te Anau. 

You can signed up the almost full day tour package departing from Queenstown, considering the 4hour plus drive one way making the entire travelling on the road to be 8 hours or more. That is why I said is a full day tour package.  Weeks before we had already booked and paid for the cruise package, just the cruise package departing at the Milford cruise terminal.  We chose Mitre Peak cruise after scouting around for the best price over the cruise itinerary based on duration and coverage; and overall the end experience from online reviews from past customers. There are other cruise companies which operate bigger boats to carry larger crowd of tourist, but these normally cater to huge tour bus groups with some of them offering meals on board as well. That was what we experienced back in 1999 on those bigger boats like ferries.  Now as the cruise business gets more competitive, there are more cruise companies to choose from. Currently there are the Real Journeys, Southern Discoveries, Juicy Cruize, and Mitre Peak Cruise; all offering coach+cruise and even fly package. 

As mentioned before, we signed up for the special discounted rate for the 1^st morning cruise ride scheduled around 8:50am. That was one of the reason why we based ourselves at Te Anau, if not we needed to drive 5 hours in the night from Queenstown to Milford sound village. With Te Anau, that will be half the time needed. 

On the road to Milford Sound in the early morning

Planning to reach the ferry terminal by 8:30am, we woke up to the raining morning at about 5am. After some light packing on our clothing and food that we bought yesterday evening from the supermarket, we dashed into our parked car just outside out motel unit due to the wet and cold morning rain. We drove into the town centre and onto the Milford-Te Anau highway 94 heading in the direction Milford sound. It seemed that we were the only car on the road at that time and guess no one will be travelling down from Milford Sound to Te Anau.  It was dark due to the early morning rain, but not total darkness but the same safety of driving with headlamps on applies to any non-sunny conditions. I had read across suggestions online about taking those coach+cruise package that leave the driving to the experienced tour bus drivers. But driving to Milford Sound is part of the experience to be able to stop and enjoy the beauty of the Fjordlands got to offer which you cannot fully experience if you join a coach package. As long as drivers are discipline enough to go slow and be alert for possible signs of danger, driving to Milford Sound is an enjoyable experience one should bring home when visiting NZ. Maybe my statement does not apply in winter where the roads can be dangerous and even close due to avalanche, leaving drivers stuck in Milford Sound. Okay, back to our trip. 

As we drove further away from Te Anau, it seemed that we were driving into the mountains where the thick dark clouds hovered. The roads winds while we drove across some of the low lands forested area. As we climbed higher into the mountains, fog began to appear, or should I say these are the rain clouds enshrouding the mountain. The safety rule is to go slow and sound the horn on corners. On and off there are one or two cars we met going in the same direction.   

Stopping just before the Homer Tunnel

Finally we reached the famous Homer Tunnel. This Homer Tunnel is 1.2km long and runs across the Homer Saddle in east-west direction as part of the highway 94 to Milford sound.  I still recall back in 1999 when we visited Milford Sound with a tour group, the guide mentioned about postal service having to scale the mountain walls to get to the other side to reach the isolated village of Milford.  Almost every tourist car that reaches the entrance of the Homer Tunnel would stop and take some pictures of the famous tunnel. The same went for us as we stopped to enjoy the majestic view of the mountains around us. This is the first encounter we have with other people on the road, and also the first close up with snow that was still left behind by the winter. What caught my attention every time is the huge mountain wall on the right side of the tunnel. You could see the massive snow like glacier ice on the mountain top waiting to spill over. Even the rain clouds were covering the peaks above the homer tunnel entrance, I know it was still there and would catch the later on the way back.

Driving inside the tunnel leading to the western end

Since it was still earlier, the traffic lights at the tunnel was not operating yet. We drove through the tunnel making the steep gradient climb to the western end of the tunnel to Milford. At the exit was the start of the winding downhill road and if the weather is good, you can experience one of the best scenic drive route to Milford terminal.   

View of the Mitre Peak taken near the ferry terminal

Inside the ferry terminal in the early morning

List of cruise operators for Milford Sound

 

Finally around 8:15am we reached the ferry tunnel and parked at the public car park some 5mins walk away. The parking space in front of the terminal is only meant for tour buses.  We packed our fleece and out shell jackets and took a slow relaxing walk to the ferry terminal along a well maintained path among the bushes. The terminal was still empty as only few tourist booked the first morning cruise trip as they either have to stay near like Te Anau or started off driving around 3am from Queenstown. The massive tourists from the tour buses only arrive from the peak noon trip which you can see the price increases for those peak period. For us, we preferred the cheaper and lesser crowd to really immerse ourselves to the beauty of the sound, and not the constant competing for space to stand on board the boat to get uninterrupted picture shots.

We got ourselves registered and collected our prepaid tickets from the counter staff. Guess the staff would have temporary accommodations at the Milford village to be at work so early.

Ferries docked at the terminal

Boats of Mitre Peak Cruise & Real Journeys

While waiting for our Mitre Peak Cruise to start, we walked out to the pier to enjoy the scenery but were put off by the sandflies hovering around us. Sandflies are really a nuisance there and they are in abundance. Do prepare yourselves if you intend to hike around the sound esp. near the waters. At around 8:55am, our cruise was ready and we were led to the docks where our boat, the Mitre Peak II was waiting for us. There was complimentary tea and coffee on the boat and once inside the boat some of the tourist after grabbing their cuppa and just headed straight to the open top deck to grab a seat. 

The sheltered bay where the ferry terminal was located

Our boat leaving long trails of waves

Didn’t know non-Asia were also that quick on such thing, and but the time we had our hot tea and went to the top deck, it was fairly crowded and we were just that finding a nice spot to stand and enjoy the view. There are a few palaces to wonder about on the smaller boat, the top deck, the rear at the lower deck and the front lower deck where some tourist like to  do the “Titanic” thingy at the front. 

Signs of better weather as we headed towards the open sea

One of the waterfalls as part of cruise route

Seals lazing around on the rocks to get some warmth

As we sailed into the wider channel of the sound, there were glimpse of blue skies and the weather seemed to be brightening up for us. Gone were the wetness and dampness of the Milford terminal and from the long drive over the mountains.  Being on a smaller boat we could go closer to the rocks to see the lazy seals drying themselves on the rocks. We continued to enjoy the morning “cold” wind on deck while the boat sailed beyond Dale Point which marks the entrance to Milford Sound. 

Getting near to the open Tasman Sean

I was actually looking forward to the itinerary mentioned on Mitre Peak website about going into the open Tasman Sea which the other boat operators may not do.   We could feel the boat going into more choppy waters being the open Tasman Sea as we ventured into the Anita Bay and beyond the lighthouse at St Anne Point. With the sun and blue skies, we saw the first sight of the western coastline of south island. Read about some hiking trails from Hollyford that can reach the coastline but take days. The turning of the boat marked the furthest point we cruised out to the open sea. Really advised parents bring along children to keep a close watch on them as the seas could be quite roughly around this area. 

Looking at the western coastline of South Island

Looking at the entrance to Milford Sound

Making the U-turn back into the Sound

 

The boat made its way inland to the sound again and we could see other boat cruise making their way too with some already turning back. Now we sailed closer to the right side of the sound going to see the Stirling Falls, the usual must do for all the cruise operators to drive the boat close to the falls to experience the rain down effect. As our boat can go closer, we experience the “rain” falling on us. Everyone on the open deck was prepared and we ourselves got out hoods up and ready for it.   

Getting closer to the waterfalls

Striling Falls

There was a stopover at the Milford Deep Underwater Observatory. It is an underwater aquarium to see the life environment of creatures living below the waters of the sounds. We didn’t visit the underwater observatory and remained on the boat for the rest of the trip back to the Milford terminal. For those who visit the observatory, they will catch the next boat service that will drop new tourists and pick up the previous batch.  Could not recall what time we returned to the cruise terminal but it was well closed to the 2hr cruise ( or was it 1 hr 45mins) as promised. 

Back at the ferry terminal

Number of visitors picking up as the day progresses

Back at the terminal, we could see the crowd differences from the tour coaches.  Weather back on land was not as good as out on the sound, maybe it was because of the mountains that kept the rain clouds for moving away, just staying there waiting for the sun to break them up slowly.

Well maintained walkway to the Chasm

Looking down the Chasm

Refreshing air within the forested area

From the terminal we took a short 10min drive to the nearby Chasm Trail Walk. This a very short walk of about 20mins to see the deep chasm where the Cleddau River created series of beautiful waterfalls. There is a car park which connects to the walkway that leads into the damped forest. At the car park there were sandflies everywhere and we quickly headed into the forest walkway. The walkway was built with wooden walkway leading into the cool and fresh air forest. We could actually smell the freshness in the air, all the negative ions that the forest and waterfall s created. We reached the bridge that spans across the chasm. We took a picture of the chasm and you can see the holes created by the waterfall, cutting through the rocks creating the chasm. 

Bridge running across the Chasm

From here it was a quick 10mins walk back to the car park and we were swamped by the battalions of sandflies. Whatever sprays we put on didn’t seem to help much and they followed us into the car. So we had to drive off with the windows open until we were sure before winding them up. We took onto highway 94 for the return journey.  Sparse clouds were still lingering around the mountain pass as we made our way up the mountain and back to the Homer Tunnel.  This time round, the traffic lights was working and we just joined the queue with the rest of the cars waiting for our turn. Loads of coaches came through the tunnel ferrying full loads of tourist to Milford terminal for the cruise. 

Driving up to Homer tunnel from Milford ferry terminal

After clearing the tunnel, we stopped once again just outside the tunnel to admire the mountains and to experience the feeling of being surrounded. There is a short 20mins alpine walk trail and the Department of Conservation (DOC) even has laminated information cards at the trailhead to let visitors pick up to read as they strolled through the loop trail.

After clearing Homer tunnel at the open space

At the Homer Alphine Walk

Flowers along the short Homer Alpine walk

Terminal wall of the mountain at Homer Alpine Walk

After spending about 45mins walking around the area, we continued the downhill route on highway 94. The weather seemed to clear up as we left the mountain area and entered into the valley plains. Sheep were happily munching the grasses and occasionally stared at cars that drove pass. There was a part of the highway 94 that has both sides with vast open spaces where many beautiful pictures were taken. 

One of the open land along the highway.

We just stooped our car by the side of the road and took out own sweet time to set up the tripod for some photo shots. The nice thing about driving in south island is that the roads in the country side always has ample space for you to park safely , whether to stretch the legs or take time off to smell the crispy grasses.

Leaving the rain clouds behind us

Sheep Sheep.

Bright yellow flowers decorated the sides of the road

When we were near the Te Anau downs, we came across fields of bright yellow flowers that painted the entire hill. With the clear blue skies above us, who would not stop to capture the moments. Looking back at mountains behind, clouds still lingered on taunting those who went there, while the bright blue skies of Te Anau welcomed us back.  Somewhere around this area we chanced upon a short walking trail to Lake Mistletoe. There was a gravel paved car park just by the side of the road.  The walk to the lake was a family walk category, about 1.3k, that takes about 45mins as indicated on the DOC website. It was really a pleasant walk for us. 

Lake Mistletoe

The wind was blowing gently, create the soft rustle among the trees and the bushes. When we reached the lake side,  we were the only folks around and it was really peaceful. A great place for city dwellers to calm down and enjoyed the simple things of nature.

Dinner is served

Our dinner venue. The Ranch

By 5:30pm, we were back at the motel to offload out bags. A simple wash-up and we headed to town to look for dinner.  Dinner for the night was at a local restaurant called The Ranch Bar & Grill. The shop served local food like ribs, steaks,  fish, salmon and of course beer and other alcoholic stuff. The food was good and we really enjoyed having dinner there. The dinner marked the end of day for us, it was a long day though but an enjoyable one especially the drive up to Milford sound.

End of Part 3.

Proceed on to Part 4 on NZ South Island trip